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  • That was my issue....having a side of the structure not visible and not wanting to not hide the details...
  • Trying not to hide a side on any of these has been driving me nuts trying to figure out how to place them on my soon to be layout too.
  • edited January 2023
    It's definitely a dilemma, and yet, not a bad problem to have... the kits look great from every angle, so, you cant go wrong.
  • Thanks Ken. You have a good eye for placement.

    Tom, I was considering framing the windows myself. This may push me over the edge, and I like the baseboard idea. The windows in question will have shades/curtains over them because I want to block the view coming in from that side...the front wall is not plastered.

    Art/Mike/Karl. It is a dilemma but easier to deal with on a dio than a layout for sure.
  • My layout is working to be mostly 2' x 8' sections along the walls....a recent decision is giving me some more space that will allow me to have a few more peninsulas...showing more details.....The layout dilemmas should be a separate thread...I'm going to start one so as to not hijack Bryans thread....
  • Bryan, I am going to agree with Ken. I like option one better. No matter which way you place then I am sure it will look fantastic. Randy
  • Thanks guys. Your input matters.

    I got started on the wood castings.IMG_0827
  • Nice wood tones.....I'm not all that good at making resin look like wood....brown wood more so....
  • Thanks Art. My method for wood castings is easy. I started using paints instead of chalks a few builds ago and I like the results. I'll document the steps with the next round of wood castings, but it goes something like this:

    Prime. let dry.
    Paint a base color. I grab 3-5 light tan and gray acrylic colors. Let dry.
    Paint a wash color. I grab 3-5 dark brown and gray enamel colors. Let dry.
    Drybrush with base color...or at least with one of the colors above.
    Drybrush with a very light gray.
    Done, unless you want to do more like add stains, burns, rust streaks, etc.
  • Top notch detail work Bryan. Like the numbered parts bin.
  • Thanks Ken. Did you notice that there are more numbers than bins? I did...after I did it.

    I'm working on the handcar and I'm going to paint it flesh color! What??? Here are the colors I used. I'm using a sponge to chip the paint. Started with shadow flesh then sponged on base flesh, dark gray, dark rust.

    Next up will be to work on some dirt/grime deposits with enamels and pigments.

    IMG_0831
    IMG_0830
    IMG_0832
    IMG_0833
    IMG_0834
  • It's all put together. I added both axles and full deck for now. May alter it later to match the scene in the instructions.

    IMG_0835
    IMG_0836
  • Fantastic job. Such a cool detail
  • Nice work Bryan. That last picture looks really nice. Randy
  • That looks fantastic Bryan.
  • Great looking Bryan
  • I like those colors....your wood technique is similar to what I do...just fine brush in some grain....and dust light with my gray/grime chalk.
  • Excellent, wouldn't have thought those colors would have "fleshed" out the results you achieved!
  • Looks great, Bryan...thanks for the tutorial

    Terry
  • I'm working on the metal castings now. Decided to go with less rust, more dust.

    IMG_0837
    IMG_0838
  • Love the work on the details. The dust effect is very convincing.
  • I like that concept....trying similar.....some stuff with a bit of rust but mostly the indication it's being used...slightly abused and left a bit dirty....I like the look....
  • Beautifully done.
  • Bryan,

    Please give us an idea of how you achieved this unique look.

    Thanks, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Thanks guys.

    Dave, once again I am guilty of posting a final result without progress shots. I'll do better on the next set. Remember I still have a box full of castings from the "station" kit.

    It went something like this:

    Prime with rattle can. Paint a solid base color with acrylic muted tones. Give a thin wash of enamel engine grime. Sponge on some acrylic rust spots with dark rust. This can be seen at the bottom of the blue/gray barrel in photo 1 and the solid gray barrel in photo 2. Scrapes can be added with fine brush or a brown marker with .005 tip.

    Take several colors of enamel rust...track wash, dark crusty rust, light crusty rust, etc. Dab these on lightly with a small brush in areas for a rust accumulation like the bands on the blue/gray barrel...I should have blended this area better. Enamels can be worked for a long time.

    Give a wash of dust effects..I used PLW Pacific Dust from Mig for this one.

    Give a light gray drybrush and a final dab of dirty thinner (the stuff I use to clean my brushes with) to some of the tops of the barrels.

    Done.

  • Bryan,

    Thanks for explaining your process.
    Not to worry. Sometimes we get so excited about our results we just need to share them, NOW! Looking forward to some process shots next time around.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Terrific results again Bryan they all look fantastic.

    Many thanks to you for taking the time to share your steps on how you got to that finish and your detailed explanation.

    I'm sure many members/readers will get a great deal from your post.


  • The handcar is excellent. Love the weathering on everything you've presented here.
  • Well done on the details Bryan. I'm on the same methodology of less rust and more well used and worn appearance of my detail work. Rust has its place but is often overdone.
  • Great work as always Bryan. Agree that it is nice to see other variations being modeled. Thanks for sharing more of your wonderful creations!!
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