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Comments
Terry
I am still raising two toddlers so no modeling news to report here.
It looks like two more Sawmill projects can be added to your list of Sawmill Projects to peruse as references.
"Another O Scale Sawmill" (Bill)
"Most Ambitious So Far the O Scale Sawmill" (Robert G)
"Sawmill Complex On30 Module" (MoganHillRR)
"SierraWest O Scale Sawmill Kit 308" (Karl A)
"The Sawmill Project Kit 308" (brownbr)
:
"Terry and the O scale Sawmill" (Vietnamseabee)
"Kevin L From Melbourne Australia" (Kevin L )
Thanks for adding this great reference list.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
The sawmill construction documents call for a sloping grade change and for a portion of this I want to use a low retaining wall.
My build photos will begin shortly
Terry
I sure cant wait for this build to start,
I'll have a look through some chalks and see if anything looks about right.
I began, as usual, graining and texturing the stripwood for the subfloor beams and girders. I tried a few sample C/A colors but ultimately went with Brett’s recommendation in the construction manual…408.5 chalk/alcohol.
Brett provides a full size layout of the sub-floor framing on Template 1. I taped the template down and covered it with a sheet of drafting vellum. Rather than spot glue the framing members to the vellum I instead used blue painters tape to hold the framing pieces in place as the additional members were glued in place
Earlier I had asked a question directed generally to any of the previous builders of the sawmill regarding the (2) Carriage Rail riser pieces. These are a scale 63 feet long. My question regarded placing them as one piece of timber (which wouldn’t be prototypically correct) but mounting them as real world lengths might prove difficult. Karl came back with a great suggestion of placing the rail riser timber as one piece of but to score the timber to create faux joints at a more believable length. I made the joints at around 20” being sure to place the fake joint(s) over an underlying support beam. I dipped a rag in A/I and wiped the joints to help them be more believable. The Carriage Rail riser(s) can be seen in the last photo. Great suggestion Karl, thanks.
That’s it for this update. Next up will be the Rope Drum assembly and cable sheaves (which moves the Log Carriage back and forth) as well as the Double Husk saw
Terry
Looking great so far, nice colour.
Jerry
Terry
Overall I'm not real happy with how this turned out but I learned a lot...I think I'll probably order a new saw kit and use the experience I gained on this one and moving forward the rebuild and future machinery builds will be better for it.
Overall I enjoyed the build and hope future builders aren't put off by the machinery (Kev).
Terry
Saw blades were primed with rattle can gray primer….brushed with Reaper Tarnish Steel .
I then mounted the blade on my Dremel tool and at a slow speed dry brushed AK4113 dark rust, AK 4112 med rust and finally AK 4111 light rust
Terry
It's been a long time since I built my last one of these so I'm not sure of your need for a rebuild.
Once the belts are put onto the tensioner, the blade drive and the blower connection I think it's going to be looking great.
It already does.
(and then the hours and hours of just sitting there, staring, looking at it finished and thinking, "wow that's amazing, I did that..." )
I have spoken with many modelers over the years about the sawmill machinery kits. Yes, there are small parts, but the alternative is for me to dumb them down and then they would just be blah and ordinary, not true scale models. (I will never do that!) It is those small details that make them so amazing and as Karl says, you will feel a sense of accomplishment when completed. They are not difficult to assemble. Take your time, identify the parts off the drawing and pics (key in assembly!), and follow the instructions. The new 3D Printed generation of sawmill machinery kits are especially enjoyable to build.
I want to remind you I am here if you have any questions or need a replacement part.
I absolutely love what Robert said, very true!