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Comments
Thanks Tom and Emery. Yes Tom the jig from Brett is a great little time saver. Randy
It has been a while since I posted any pictures. Due to the holidays I have not got much workbench time in on the handcar shed. My latest project has been the handcar itself. In Karl's build he said he simulated carriage bolts on the decking. I decided I wanted to try to take that a step further. I got this idea from PBL truss rods on their car kits. Take monofilament fishing line and melt the end with a soldering iron. Thread the line through the turnbuckle until the melted fishing line stopped. Do the same for the other end of the turnbuckle. That would leave the the middle of the turnbuckle empty so a board could be threaded through the two buckles on one side of the car. So I decided to try this for bolt heads The first picture was my first attempt. I was not happy as many of the bolt heads were too big.
So back to the drawing board.
Here is the fishing line held up close to the soldering iron. Notice the end of the line is starting to swell. I drilled holes through the wood with a # 77 drill and threaded the fishing line through. Painted the swelling, added a little ACC and pulled the swelling up tight to the board. I added four "bolts" to each of the long boards and two for each short board. Here is my second try with the bolts on the decking.
Above is the side frame with the two wheels. Below is the side where one wheel has been removed.
This end view shows the two older boards that were not "replaced" as they were still in good shape. The other old boards were also left because being close the pump handle they did not get as much wear and damage as the outside boards. The pump handle were painted a light tan and then lightly brushed with a dark color to simulate the use by dirty and oily hands.
The bolts in the new boards were painted with oily steel. The old boards bolts were painted with dark rust. Thanks for looking, and as usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
damn rivet counter.....
Ha Kev !
Great work so far.
I sure hope he sends you that footprint soon so that we can get another update.
You will notice that I covered only one of the openings. I cut separate pains of glass. That way if I want a broken window one side can be broken without disturbing the other. I then put some dotts of ACC on the frame.
This frame was for one of the pumphouse windows. I then set a larger pain of glass on the frame and let the glue set. One advantage of using real glass is if glue gets out on the open part of the glass it can be scraped off with the point of a hobby knife. I then turned the window frame over and scored along the side of the frame
This picture shows the glass along side of the window that I just scored broken off.
I finished all of the other windows in the same manner. So, now all the windows are glazed and ready to install. Thanks for looking and as always all comments and suggestion are welcomed. Randy
You can see the sheet of cader sticking out of the top of the Dupli-Cutter. Just slide it down to the stop and slice off a strip of cader. No more measuring, much faster. Then put the strip under a chopper blade and break it off at the blade as Karl suggested. I now have quit a few shingles cut and reddy to set in place.
As you can see a lot of the shingles have a rough uneven end which I hope will add a lot of character to the roof. Thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
The dupli-cutter looks very useful. I've been using a paper guillotine in much the same way for many years.
Tip: I have several sheets marked with various common dimensions such as 6, 8, 10 and 12" incremental lines. I tape the one I need to the bed and then move the sheet stock one line at a time for quick and consistent width strips.
Thought: As you have the wonderfully aged tones on one side and the new natural colour on the other side you could add a repair patch as I did on this old scratch build from many years ago, (2009).
These were also real cedar shingles from a cigar box...
Just to dull that stark contrast (if there even is any).
Dip a make-up 'blusher' brush (which is very soft and quite wide) in the chalk, knock all the chalk off the brush and then wipe it vertically to very subtly dull the transitions.