I did some more on the barrels last night. The bands were colored with AK international weathering .pencils. The body of the barrel wan then dabbed with different wood colored chalks with a wet with water brush. Thanks for looking and commenting. Randy
Bryan I like them. I tried them wet but for me the work better dry. I used them on my truck repair. I make a mark and them use a wet rolled paper artis tool called a tortillons to feather the color out. I hope this helps. Thanks Ken for your nice words. Randy
tortillons i have some! a). i thought they were called blunts or something like that, and b) i had no f*cking idea what they were for. thanks for the enlightenment! now if i still have them....
Last night and about an hour and a half tonight I spent getting an LED wired. I plan to put this in the light over the wall hand drill. The first picture shown the small size of the micro LED. The point of a number eleven hobby knife blade give you some idea of how small the LED is. In fact I lost six of them on my workbench before I finely got this one wired. The second picture shown that it works. Now this is too bright so I will add a 1.5 K resister to it to cut the brightness by at least half. I plan to bend a .018 inch tube to match the conduit of the 3D printed light Brett supplied with the kit. Hopefully I will be able to cut off the reflector and drill it out for the micro LED. I needed a break from working on details is why I did the work on tbe LED. After I got the light working I decided to add a few details to the inside of the left wall. Thanks for looking and as always any comments, suggestion ,or criticisms are welcomed. Randy
Thanks Karl and Bryan. I know hat you mean Bryan. This last LED only took about fifteen minutes while I spent three or four hours getting to that point. Thanks again, Randy
Randy, great idea to light that over the drill press. It will really showcase that great detail. You're doing a great job on this kit. Soldering those LEDs is a pain. I use some strong double sided tape to hold the LED in place; it helps a bit. A small dab of Flux on the contacts and I apply a little solder. Tin the leads and then a quick application of the iron to solder the connection. I don't know if it's needed but I then apply a drop of CA over the solder joint sort of as insulation from shorting. I hope this is helpful but you've obviously found a way forward too. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Jim. The tip about the tape is one I will definitely make use of. I have been using Ngineering two clamp holding fixture. I worked great for the 2 X 3mm LED's but these micro LED's kept getting away from me. Thanks again for your help. Randy
Well I guess I have taken off enough time for Thanksgiving. Looking at Karl's and Art's progress I am being a slow poke. I have been graining and staining wood for the floor and the tank platform. I did the wood for the floor in two batches. The first was done with the 408.3 and 408.5 chalks. This was for the floor inside the shed. For the rest of the wood I added a little black to the two brown colors. My reasoning was that the floor between the tank and shed would be more exposed to the weather and get more oil drops from the hand cars and equipment going in and out. The first picture shows a general view of the floor with my masters of scrap wood for the length of the floorboards. I would hold the board up to the master and cut the board a little longer and sand it on my Ultimation sander to the correct length.. The second picture is a little more close up of the floor. I tried to mix both long and short boards. I did not bother on the last four at the back because they will be covered by a shelf. I will install the rail later when it is less likely to be caught on something and bent. Thanks for looking and any and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Another one of those awe inspiring builds. Great work Randy! The color of those boards is just awesome. I really dig the tones, hoping I can achieve that one day (not easy for a colorblind guy I must admit). Keep on posting, Im enjoying this immensely!
Robert, Bryan, Brett, and Jeroen Thank you all for your kind comments. Jeroen, don't worry, my son is also color blind and does a great job with his photography.
I have had some other thing to work on so the only construction on the kit has been the tank platform. The bottom boards were done in browns because they would be covered by the top layer. The top layer was weathered with black and white chalk and alcohol the same as the siding. I plan to do the tank color some whare in between. Brownish on the top and a grayer color towards the bottom. Because of the tank roof overhang protecting the top part of the tank. Again all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Randy
Just a small trick. If you would want to put in nail holes, best do them before coloring. That way the color gets into the holes and will emphasize them . Better than doing it afterwords. Well, that's how I do it. Additional rust, if wanted, can always be added later.
Comments
Thanks for looking and commenting. Randy
i have some! a). i thought they were called blunts or something like that, and b) i had no f*cking idea what they were for. thanks for the enlightenment! now if i still have them....
The point of a number eleven hobby knife blade give you some idea of how small the LED is. In fact I lost six of them on my workbench before I finely got this one wired. The second picture shown that it works.
Now this is too bright so I will add a 1.5 K resister to it to cut the brightness by at least half. I plan to bend a .018 inch tube to match the conduit of the 3D printed light Brett supplied with the kit. Hopefully I will be able to cut off the reflector and drill it out for the micro LED. I needed a break from working on details is why I did the work on tbe LED. After I got the light working I decided to add a few details to the inside of the left wall.
Thanks for looking and as always any comments, suggestion ,or criticisms are welcomed. Randy
amazing how bright that tiny LED is... (before you dull it down).
Nice start on the detailing, looking forward to seeing more.
Soldering those LEDs is a pain. I use some strong double sided tape to hold the LED in place; it helps a bit. A small dab of Flux on the contacts and I apply a little solder. Tin the leads and then a quick application of the iron to solder the connection. I don't know if it's needed but I then apply a drop of CA over the solder joint sort of as insulation from shorting.
I hope this is helpful but you've obviously found a way forward too.
Keep up the good work.
The second picture is a little more close up of the floor. I tried to mix both long and short boards. I did not bother on the last four at the back because they will be covered by a shelf.
I will install the rail later when it is less likely to be caught on something and bent. Thanks for looking and any and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Colours are looking nice and grimy like a well used shop floor.
Looking forward to more.
The top layer was weathered with black and white chalk and alcohol the same as the siding.
I plan to do the tank color some whare in between. Brownish on the top and a grayer color towards the bottom. Because of the tank roof overhang protecting the top part of the tank. Again all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Randy
Nice platform so far !!