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Comments
I probably spent too much time on the side of the door that will not be easily seen. I also put most all the details on sticks to be primed.
But as I said in Karl's thread I will need to move the barrels into the group to items to be painted black. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for looking and any comments or suggestions will be welcomed. Thanks, Randy
Can't wait to see your results on the details.
Dang, you got some yellow castings by the look of your last pic, those suckers are super rare... you must be special... haha
Keep up the great posts and progress !!
breezeway.. Thanks for the comments and as usual all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Randy
Brett's instructions I ended up with this tar paper.
I would like your opinion about the color of the paper. to me it is a little two mottled. Maybe some dry brushed black paint or black chalk or just leave it alone. You will notice that I put the tarpaper up in the gable. Brett did not have that in the instructions but I thought that with the rafters being open the gables would need to be sealed from the weather also. To get the correct shape of paper with out a lot of trial and error I drew lines along the plans so I could use straight edge to cut the tar paper to shape
That was done yesterday and last night.
Now in this picture the three bottom and the top fingers of the back hit the "rocks" of the left side wall and cause a gap in the middle fingers. I know that Brett's instructions tell us to fill in the gaps with a thin plaster mix. But these gaps seamed to large to fill easely with a watery plaster mixture. I used a small square file to deepen the one top and bottom three slots in the side wall.
After filing and test fitting numerous times I got things to fit to my satisfaction.
Brett's instructions say to spray the base with Kills primer and then use the plaster to fill the spaces. I am wondering if when the base is painted or stained the plaster will take the color differently than the Kills. Might it be better to put the plaster in the cracks now and then spray both the plaster and resin together? I would like to hear your thoughts. As usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks, Randy
The manual never calls for "watery" plaster to fill the gaps that were mastered that way purposely. The manual calls for "soupy" plaster which will fill the gaps perfectly as shown in the manual. I caution anyone not to file the gaps as this could cause fit issues. Your walls look great but the re-fitting was unnecessary.
Now that you have sanded them and you have the stones tight together there is no room for the mortar.
I would NOT use a wire brush, soft or otherwise to remove any excess plaster from the stone faces. This may scratch or damage the resin surface, this could show up later after painting, especially in those close up photo's we all love.
Simply wipe the corners with a soft damp cloth, this will clean the stone faces and also remove any excess plaster from the mortar lines, thereby recessing them so that they match the rest of the walls.
Simple, quick and easy.
The Line reads
"Add tarpaper to the remaining walls and the truss if you plan on adding lights and/or making the roof removable."
So, as you are making your roof removeable, the manual already had you covered.
Following that I started to work on the primed detail parts. I started with adding some AK lite, medium, and dark rust colors applied randomly to the 3D printed parts. I then allowed the parts to set for two days so the paint would cure.
This worked OK, however with the next set of castings I may go way back in time and use Folquil rust colors. Because even with the curing the rust paint came off with the alcohol and make up sponge method Brett suggests using on the 3D printed parts. I have done the gas tanks and a few barrels.
The three dard tank's colors did not show up. Two are green and one is blue.
The two trash cans were painted with AK aged pewter, sponged, and lightly wire brushed. The two barrels are two toned blue and green and white. I am going to redo the stove casting as most of the rust came off. I will display some more painted detail parts in my net post. As always any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy
Now with new walls in hand I can get back to work on the pump house. Here are the walls with the gap.
After I got all the walls glued together I mixed up some plaster to the consistency of whipping cream.
I used the black brush like a scoop to add small amounts of molding plaster to the water in the paint tray. I use molding plaster because it is much easier to clean out of the joints than Hydrocal. When I had the plaster to the consistency I wanted I used a wide flat brush to smoth the plaster on the corner joints of the pump house.
You will notice that the castings have not been sprayed with Kilz. I had this discussion with Brett and he assured me it did not matter which I did first. I did the plaster first for two reason. First it is easier to see the plaster on the colored castings than on the white kilz. The second reason is that I did not want to take any chance that the plaster and Kilz would take the stains differently. This way the entire surface is covered with Kilz and should take the stain evenly. After the plaster was on the joints I took a wet paper towel and wiped as much of the plaster off as I could.
After the wet towel I used a hobby knife with a broken point the chip the plaster from the mortar joints
After cleaning up the plaster from the joints the front wall looks like this.
The walls were the sprayed with the Kilz.
I am going to let the Kilz cure for a few days before I try to stain the the walls. To that end I got back to painting shelf castings. This is just the start. I need to go back to add chalk to the castings to tone down the colors some more. I also want to use the AK weathering pencils to add some color and texture to the wood of the shelves.
I hope this clarified my mistake with my first set of walls. As usual all comments and suggestions to improve my construction of this model will be appreciated. Thanks Randy
Shelves are very nicely painted. It always amazes me that once we start painting Brett's shelf castings more and more detail starts becoming evident.
Your base layers are well done and I look forward to enjoying your next steps and seeing them evolve.