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Comments
if you put alcohol (or A/I ) over dulcoat... the alcohol will react and it will turn the dulcoat to a white hazy chalky finish.
It can be used carefully as a technique to model hard water deposits on something like a water tank.
But not something you would want unexpectedly on something like a structure.
Luckily you can reverse it....
Muddy, I've grown fond of matte fixative also. Have a can of matte and semi-gloss on hand from Vallejo or AK.
I was trying to match the color of the painted wood with chalks for the rest of the structure. I think this is close enough. Did 1 side darker than the other for inside/outside.
I think that's Ken's trademark thumb.
A little known and super secret technique I discovered to get out of this situation is to simply respray the part/item/detail with dullcoat again.
This will re-dissolve the white residue caused by the alcohol wash reaction and turn it back to a clear flat finish again, thus taking you back to where you were.
Pros - the model isn't ruined and you can move on, also you can learn how to use this to your advantage in certain situations.
Cons - too many repeated spray coats will fill in minute details on Brett's (SWSM) amazing details.
(not really an issue for a wall such as Bryans).
Hope this helps.
Karl. A
Looking forward to what you show us next.
Color pallet is Rembrandt dark gray 707.3, dark brown 409.3 and light gray 707.8. For one side I used 707.3 as the main color with a touch of the other 2, for the other side I used 707.8 as main with touch of the other 2. On both sides I washed color in then added 704.8 and 100.5 on top and brushed that in also.
I let these completely dry and you get the first 2 boards on the left. Then brush out the grain with a brass brush and give 2-3 light passes with 220 grit paper: middle 2 boards. Follow this with a coat of AI and a 2nd pass with the sand paper to finish it up. 2 boards on right.
After brushing out the grain, you will have a bunch of chalk dust to use for touchups. It perfectly matches the color of the boards.
These are the brushes I use. A very stiff steel brush to really dig into the wood...only brush 1 direction (towards end of board) so you don't break too many boards. A light steel brush to bring out more of the smaller grain. And the brass brush as mentioned before.
By the way, I do appreciate that this kit has lumber described as scale 1X10, etc. I'm not a fan of the .020 X 3/32 descriptions.
Have a Good Weekend.
Terry
The walls are assembled and test fitted. I noticed a couple of items to clean up like the length of trim over the double doors and the height of the tracked door. But nothing major stuck out to me. I'll put these to the side for a while and work on the deck next.
I'm test fitting a roof here. Went through a few trials before I got the sag the way I wanted it. It think this will work. Adjusted the front door also.
Perfect for that structure.
Ken, I like seeing how others troubleshoot construction in their builds so I wanted to include this here.
Karl, as you can see I went with option 2 here. As I was test fitting I was able to determine that the underside of the roof would not be visible. I will trim out the end of the cardboard so the edges are covered and put in a false rafter bottom inside so that part can be seen through the door.
I see a crooked support post under the deck by the double doors. Guess I should address that also.