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not the sharpest Tool in the Shed
I cleaned off the workbench and opened up the tool shed today. I've got a few ideas on how this will go but I'll likely make a final decision by the time the structure itself is complete.
My first thought was that I would use it as a companion structure to Blue Sky and give the Tool Shed a false front like a country store. The idea is to have a "wrong side of the track" setup with dueling gas stations since both have gas pumps, cola wars (Coke vs Pepsi) and a reference to old man Shelby's cousin Shep. Could have a lot of hidden jokes in it which I like.
Second thought is to have a small footprint diorama and keep the false front (Marty Jones did a version of this years ago). Footprint could be as small as 6x8. Probably with detailed interior and a sagging roof...maybe even leaning walls. I'm leaning towards this as I have several larger dioramas and this would be a nice break from that.
Hope to start graining wood today.
My first thought was that I would use it as a companion structure to Blue Sky and give the Tool Shed a false front like a country store. The idea is to have a "wrong side of the track" setup with dueling gas stations since both have gas pumps, cola wars (Coke vs Pepsi) and a reference to old man Shelby's cousin Shep. Could have a lot of hidden jokes in it which I like.
Second thought is to have a small footprint diorama and keep the false front (Marty Jones did a version of this years ago). Footprint could be as small as 6x8. Probably with detailed interior and a sagging roof...maybe even leaning walls. I'm leaning towards this as I have several larger dioramas and this would be a nice break from that.
Hope to start graining wood today.
Comments
Great idea to have competing advertisements and businesses: Pepsi vs Coke; Mobil vs Shell; Lucky Strike vs Marlboro; See Rock City vs Visit Luray Caverns. As always, I am looking forward to seeing some of your ideas revealed during the build,
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Terry
Kevin, I'll keep my fingers crossed that the sagging roof turns out and I will post progress.
I agree Ken about the planning. I'll take Dave's comment as a vote for the big dio.
I attached siding for the false front. Brushed the grain and added a few detail then glued it on bare. I used the rafter guide to make a pattern on the back of the false front. My plan is to paint the front which is why the wood is not stained. I will eventually prime it then paint like bare wood then add a peeling paint effect.
Once this part dried I'll trim a bit long and then get everything nice and flush with the sander. Then add the trim detail around the door, side and top of wall. Then paint.
Jerry
you're off to a good start.
I put a coat of AK chipping effects on, let dry then painted. Next I'll start chipping/peeling the paint.
The backside of the false front did not turn out the way I had hoped. I'll likely revisit this area while finishing the bare wood walls. The wood under the framing will not be easily visible even with the large doors open so I will not treat this anymore.
Kevin, the stuff is easy to use. I use a brush, but it would work better with an airbrush. When brushing the top paint layer, you will need to load the brush heavy with paint to get good coverage because you will not be able to work the paint onto the surface much because it will start to dissolve the chipping fluid.
I score the paint by running a #11 blade with the grain of the wood. Multiple scores where I want a lot of paint gone, few scores everywhere else. Mist with water and wait 30 seconds or so. Then take a stiff brush...I used a cheap natural bristle brush and start rubbing back and forth until the paint started to flake off. Continue until you achieve the desired result. Mist the wall to wash off debris that will begin to accumulate and dab dry with paper towel. You will want to work quickly as you don't want to glue to start to loosen while you work. When done, set it aside. Further detailing/weathering can be done when dry again.
The pics here show the same technique on a casting and the door. It is much easier to use a casting than wood for this. Keep in mind that I prepped the base wall with rattle can primer followed by enamels just for this technique. I will admit that chalks are easier for the wood, but this technique will wash the chalk off where the mineral spirit resist method will not.
I chipped the wall and door, added some ghost paint streaks and gave a wash of a gray/blue enamel.
I'll give a drybrushing and start adding hardware before doing anything. Surely some rust streaks from the running track, a few signs, etc. I think a touch of mold/mildew on the top flat surface would be appropriate.
Terry
Pros and cons of this method:
Pros: Less odor than mineral spirits. No bare edges to touch up after cutting. Can do the whole wall at once so you can weather some areas more than others.
Cons: Don't really like priming then weathering wood wall...chalks easier to work with but they wash away with this method. Several extra steps. Easier technique on castings vs wood.