Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 955 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Ultimation Slicer
A lot of you on here found the Ultimation Sander to be a revelation in model making.....I was just at the Harrisburg Narrow O Show and came across their latest tool...The Ultimation Slicer....and was duly impressed. I have gone thru many Choppers....they are great tools...but mine have tended to loosen up after a lot of use and then I end up with not so accurate angle cuts. The Slicer is as solid a build as the Sander....it also uses chisel point blades making for precise cuts....and comes with a repeater attachment to make multiple duplicate cuts. It's worth looking into....I'll post some photos once I get my camera working right....they sold out at the show within a few hours....
Comments
Terry
Thanks for the info about the Ultimation Slicer. I followed Terry's suggestion and went to the web site, watched the demo and promptly ordered what I perceive to ne a quality companion tool for my Sander.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
There are two ways to use a chisel correctly because it is a single edge blade, the edge of the blade leads the cut, dependent on the cut you want. Either to smooth out a face or dig in to it...
Of course, with .020 strip wood that wouldn't make much of a difference, but with thicker wood an angled cut would require sanding to get it 'true'.
I guess that's where their sander comes in useful, but I'd be mindful to make sure I overcut everything and then sand to length/square/true.
that's the same issue with the chopper, and why i use it so much less than i used to. i bought the repeater for the sander but i've not had a chance to use it yet, but the reason i bought it was exactly what you're referring to. the shight bevel that the single edged blade puts on the board. i know there's a way to defeat the bevel (a new war cry, DEFEAT THE BEVEL!) by rotating the stock when you're cutting it, but that's not always a perfect cut. i'm rambling. i should go back to bed.
I think that is what Kevin was saying as well?
Everytime you make a cut so the piece you want is square, you then would need to square off the end of your stock again before cutting off the next leg/post/stud, whatever it is, thus making it double the work.
You do have to initially cut the piece about 1/8" long then make the finish cut, so yes you do have to make 2 cuts but the repeater guide does make the final cut all the same length.
what I am saying is, if the cut is square only on one side due to the blade then you will need to square up the other side of the cut every time to continue.
This means you either need to overcut the piece you want and sand it square. Or,
You need to square up the end of your stock again after every cut so the next piece you cut off is square. (which I think Emery already said when he said "trim up the lead edge")