i've made no secret about my dislike of using 2 part epoxy. that being said, with me having a sawmill kit with my name on it, i realize that with all the machinery, i am going to need to embrace the epoxy. can one of you guys please give me some instruction into the best way of applying the epoxy without getting it all over the place. and the best time to apply it, because my experience with the product hasn't been neat or controlled and it needs to be. thanks in advance for any insight into this sh*tty but necessary adhesive.
Comments
I use loctite super glue Ultragel for most metal fastening applications.
I discovered something else by accident. If you use a drop of Ultragel and a drop of Elmer's glue all on top of it it seems to bond quickly over a larger area like epoxy.
It works for me. Experiment and it might work for you.
I suggest you might take a couple of resin castings you have around, like two barrels, and glue them together and judge the results.
With larger castings you might try the Elmer's glue all and supergel combination. You should hold the pieces together for 20 seconds? then let go. It works for me.
I find that blackened metal doesn't glue together well with CA (at least for me) and I much prefer epoxy for that. I've had a few pieces break apart with CA and have had to sand the blackening off to get good adhesion.
If you use the white glue then use Elmer's glue all and not the school glue or something else.
One such situation will be that double husk saw frame. Blacken and polish the metal then file the area where 2 parts will meet…be precise here. Test fit. Mix and apply epoxy and secure the pieces. Give it a couple minutes then you can pick off any extra that oozes out.
One thing I have found is fresh epoxy seems a bit easier to handle. Stuff you've had on your shelf might be more difficult to use.
You don't need a lot it will bond perfectly and no mess.
I think one of the problems is people think they need more than they do.
Jerry
But then again, doesn't everything we do.
It's the best adhesive for the metal/metal situation.
It gets easier, less of a hassle over time and the more you use it, like everything.
Yes, a one-off bond is a bit of a chore, but when you are building something like the sawmill machinery, or workshop machines or even the metal tractor from Bluesky you get used to it and it just works so well.
Even a one off joint isnt so bad, you just need patience.
Brett's instructions in the manuals will guide you through the use, such as waiting until its "stringy" before you apply and make the bond, leave it alone once you put it together and dont 'wiggle' it. Also let it get to the rubbery stage and you can cleanly remove any excess/ooze with a tooth pick.
A couple of extra tips for you with Epoxy...
1) If you microwave the two parts for 10 seconds it will make the two parts thinner/more watery before mixing.
2) If you get 'sticky' fingerprints or areas on the parts just let it set and the rubbing alcohol we use on a cloth (or Q-tip) will dissolve it and clean it off after your joint is set.
As has been said previously, I also, apply a drop of each part on a post-it, mix with a toothpick and apply with a pin.
Epoxy takes a little patience to learn, but, it's still quicker than building something twice.
Jerry
as to the virtues of 2-part epoxy; well i gotta say.... i had one helluva time getting two parts of the cat (tractor...i'm not torturing animals) apart. they'd been epoxied for months, but after the disaster with the two tractors, i needed to remove this piece (brett is sending me a replacement) because, due to its size it would be impossible to get all of the old epoxy off of it. i had to jury rig a way to soak it in alcohol for a few days to weaken it. the alcohol evaporated before the joint weakened twice. i am impressed.