Very nice! May I make a suggestion? Oh well I'm going to anyway. If your trestle is in salt water there will be a white residue at and a little above the water line. I did a search a while back when I built the Foss Oyster Co. I found interesting photos that had this white residue. It added quite a bit of interest in my opinion. If this is in fresh water I don't think there will be any residue. Just a thought.
Thanks Tom. You, my friend, are exactly right! The evaporated sea water leaves salt residue. The reason you don't see that is I want to wait until all the details are in place and I can accurately measure where my hide tide mark is going to be and I will then blend in a residue line. Depending on where that falls I may have to add more of the dark layer and the green. The photo below is what I'm using after searching a bunch of images.
I was toying with the idea of making it fresh water. Decided against it as the Waterfront will be fresh water and the Bait & Tackle shop just beg salt water!
Love that pic of the salt deposits/bleaching, salt makes everything so crusty and rusty and... beautiful. Great work Ken so far and all based on great research. Looking forward to more.
Nice research pic. That's the look I was referring to. I figured you had thought it through but wanted to make the suggestion before you installed the timbers as it is easier to do weathering before installation.
Really appreciate the note Tom…that’s what this forum is all about. If all we do is gush over everyone’s work, regardless, this helps no one. I’m thrilled you called me out on that! I think I miss calculated on how high the tide marks will be. If I add 1/4 inch of water it doesn’t leave as much markings above the water as I think would look good. Will study on that thing, it’s been praying on my mind!lol.
Ken, I am really enjoying your build of this kit. I reminds me of a trip to Bar Harbor in 1968. Great work. That low tide photo you included is really inspirational, One can almost smell he salt air. Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Thanks Dave. Being my first waterfront diorama I feel a bit like “a fish out of water”…ha. I was a bit concerned that I wouldn’t get that maritime feel to things so appreciate your take thus far.
I think by now you know how I value your work Ken. There are few people who have the skill to turn it all in a super realistic scale model and you are one of them. That dock is incredibly impressive and the salt water residue a wonderful idea. Wha I like about your reference pic is also the little things that you see in the water. Small pieces of wood sticking out, rather at random, probably from an old structure or broken off. It’s something you often see in places like this. That would fit right in what you’re building. Awesome work!
Really appreciate your thoughts here Jeroen. Reference photos are invaluable when coming up with scene development. I spend as much time mulling over things as I do modeling them! Many pilings to go so lots of opportunities for some interesting details...
Update on Shelby's diorama work. Based on the prototype picture previous, I worked up a sample 3 piling group. The metal bands on the tops of the pilings were originally done with styrene strip. These proved too thick so I settled on paper. I decided that rather than rope binding I would use simulated wire cable. This was done with black ship rigging thread. Ship rigging thread is an improvement over plain thread as you don't get the little fraying fuzzies that sometimes show up with standard thread. I will do a bit more rust effects on the cables and some other little finishing details but wanted to get a trial sample done to see where I'm going.
I decided to make the rowboat dock, located under the Bait & Tackle Shop, a floating dock to account for the change in tide level. I used SWSM 3D printed barrels to provide the floats. Careful placement on the resin "water" will be needed so they don't sink in. Leveling sticks may be used underneath to ensure this!
I will likely add some securing cable to the barrels that attach the barrels to the dock and some other details.
The basic landforms have been done with some pre-planning required. The shoreline in some areas represent deep water and other areas more shallow. The land should convey this in the diorama to give that illusion...ie steep bank at the shore suggests deep water.
My landform was done with a combination of plaster rock molds I made and Sculptamold. The Sculptamold fills in areas around the plaster rocks and can be carved as desired. This particular area is steep, falling off to deep water
By contrast, this area has a more gentle slope to the water and a more shallow area.
This is the area beside and below the Bait & Tackle shop. Steep rocky bank indicating deep water with a man made sloping area in the middle for stair access to the rowboat dock. Folks will be fishing off the pier above so needed to represent deep water around the pier.
Overall view of the landforms. Quite a bit more to do...
This is really cool. Amazing how you're able to get that detail with such small parts! I'm interested to see how you color the plaster and the water pour.
Great progress on this...I see this coming together in your typical fashion as Brett has stated. You have a great eye for detail and you inspire and influence a lot of us on the forum....Looking Great!
If that's the case Art, I am in modeling heaven! Nothing more satisfying than the thought of inspiring other modelers to get to the bench...thanks much for the note.
Worked up another group of pilings. Went for a slightly different securing method taken from reference pictures for additional interest. Added the various levels of tide marks also from reference photos. The NBWs here seem a bit big and may pop them off and go one size smaller. This is only apparent in the close up pics so may not mess with it.
upper securing bands made from paper. Pigments for the tide marks from reference photos. These pilings were made from scale 12x12 square stripwood.
Looks great. I was wondering if baking soda dissolved in water wouldn't work for the tide line too. When dry it might leave a white residue; just a thought. I love the strapping on top. The nbw does look a bit oversized but not too bad. This is going to look so great when installed, great job.
Comments
I was toying with the idea of making it fresh water. Decided against it as the Waterfront will be fresh water and the Bait & Tackle shop just beg salt water!
Great work Ken so far and all based on great research.
Looking forward to more.
Jerry
I am really enjoying your build of this kit. I reminds me of a trip to Bar Harbor in 1968. Great work. That low tide photo you included is really inspirational, One can almost smell he salt air.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
I decided to make the rowboat dock, located under the Bait & Tackle Shop, a floating dock to account for the change in tide level. I used SWSM 3D printed barrels to provide the floats. Careful placement on the resin "water" will be needed so they don't sink in. Leveling sticks may be used underneath to ensure this!
I will likely add some securing cable to the barrels that attach the barrels to the dock and some other details.
The basic landforms have been done with some pre-planning required. The shoreline in some areas represent deep water and other areas more shallow. The land should convey this in the diorama to give that illusion...ie steep bank at the shore suggests deep water.
My landform was done with a combination of plaster rock molds I made and Sculptamold. The Sculptamold fills in areas around the plaster rocks and can be carved as desired. This particular area is steep, falling off to deep water
By contrast, this area has a more gentle slope to the water and a more shallow area.
This is the area beside and below the Bait & Tackle shop. Steep rocky bank indicating deep water with a man made sloping area in the middle for stair access to the rowboat dock. Folks will be fishing off the pier above so needed to represent deep water around the pier.
Overall view of the landforms. Quite a bit more to do...
Thanks much Brett. So many detail opportunities with this build, what an accomplishment on this kit design!
Jerry
This is really cool. Amazing how you're able to get that detail with such small parts! I'm interested to see how you color the plaster and the water pour.
Appreciate that Alex. Those two things will make or break this thing that's for sure!
Slow but sure, thanks Bryan.
upper securing bands made from paper. Pigments for the tide marks from reference photos. These pilings were made from scale 12x12 square stripwood.