Thanks much JimM. Should prove interesting to see where it goes.
Hi Paul, appreciate that and nice hearing from you.
Thanks George and I really enjoy the back story on Brett's kits, particularly the older releases such as Shelby's.
Nice hearing from you Joel. Great to hear that Shelby's is one of your all time favorite SWSM kit. I'm really looking forward to this build as it has all the elements a modeler could ask for. Appreciate the support on the paint. This finish gives a nice variation and I plan to incorporate some other "peel" effects in addition to this one.
Hi Jerry, and thanks. I'm happy with the positive responses to the historical account for the kit. I really got into this aspect with Eureka Springs, but have always researched, to some extent, the history of all the SWSM kits I have completed (this is number eleven I believe).
Thanks so much Brett. As I mentioned to Joel, I plan to level a couple of paint application effects here, so will see how that goes! Almost have the lower level walls done!...
Hi Steve, great hearing from you. Hope all is well. Thanks much for taking the time to "check in" and hopefully we can hook up again at a show down the road again.
Great introduction and history. The first walls look very nice. Perfect crackle.. Perhaps you could post a link where to get that paint. ( if that,s ok with the SW management... ) Another fine build to follow. To bad there is no O scale version of it.. Like so many SW HO scale kits...
Hey Thanks much Robert and nice hearing from you. I’m pleased with the response to the history and back story of the kits I have been posting of late. As I mentioned, I enjoy the research on the kits and lets me go into the build with a good sense of how it was originally conceived and the “flavor” of the project.
The crackle paint took a bit of messing around with to get right and just adds another peel effect to the other excellent methods out there. I believe I mentioned I use the Ranger product but it is now difficult to find. I imagine other artists brands would work just as well.
Make sure it’s white as there is a bunch of the “clear rock candy” which you don’t want. Haven’t tried coloring the clear but doubt it would work as well.
Oops , glad I mentioned that. The white crackle from Ranger is discontinued in its original label but I think any crackle paint from an artists supply would work just as well. Haven’t looked as I have a couple jars of the original I purchased a few years ago.
Just thought I would help out here. I found on Amazon Ranger Texture Paste Opaque Crackle. It does not indicate Clear rock Candy. Not sure is this is the correct stuff. 3.9oz bottle for $10 bucks.
1. Detail the wood as desired. 2. Stain/Color your base wood. This will be the color of the wood once the crackle paint is removed. 3. Apply the white crackle paint and let completely dry. 4. Scrape off crackle paint as desired.
Pappy, don't add paint and then the crackle. The crackle is the paint. You'll end up with two layers of paint. When I said stain/color your wood I meant the base color of the raw wood. Should have just said stain I guess.
No...the crackle paint you need to get is WHITE. There is crackle clear but that's not what you want. I have not tried coloring the clear but suspect it will change the properties of the crackle paint and won't give the desired effect. Would be interesting to experiment with that though.
i bought a crackle product years ago, folk art crackle medium. the instructions say to paint it on the wood, and when dry paint the top coat. it's supposed to crackle the top coat. it doesn't work for n scale, but i've not tried it yet in o scale.
Finished the walls for the bottom section of Shelby's main structure. Despite just 4 half walls here, a lot of work went into them thus far. The interiors will be more detailed once the upper half walls are done and attached. The bottom half is stud framing (obviously), while the upper half will be over templates. The interior of the upper half will be mostly hidden.
Lower level walls. Bare wood areas are covered by both the tool shop framing and the rear shed. The "people door" on the long wall with the large bare wood area is the access from the interior of the tool shed to the main facility.
Lower level interior walls. I have covered the interior of a few walls in my previous builds but decided to cover all the interior with tar paper on this build. I do this for a couple reasons; firstly, it gives the walls a more finished appearance and at the same time a dirty, grungy look. Secondly, the spaces between boards, when viewed from the outside when lit on the interior, gives distracting light seep. The tar paper covers much of this. And finally, the Interior details along the walls really show up and are highlighted well against the solid tar paper.
Comments
Hi Paul, appreciate that and nice hearing from you.
Thanks George and I really enjoy the back story on Brett's kits, particularly the older releases such as Shelby's.
Nice hearing from you Joel. Great to hear that Shelby's is one of your all time favorite SWSM kit. I'm really looking forward to this build as it has all the elements a modeler could ask for. Appreciate the support on the paint. This finish gives a nice variation and I plan to incorporate some other "peel" effects in addition to this one.
Hi Jerry, and thanks. I'm happy with the positive responses to the historical account for the kit. I really got into this aspect with Eureka Springs, but have always researched, to some extent, the history of all the SWSM kits I have completed (this is number eleven I believe).
Thanks so much Brett. As I mentioned to Joel, I plan to level a couple of paint application effects here, so will see how that goes! Almost have the lower level walls done!...
Hi Steve, great hearing from you. Hope all is well. Thanks much for taking the time to "check in" and hopefully we can hook up again at a show down the road again.
But with Brett's structure design, it looks so good...
The crackle paint took a bit of messing around with to get right and just adds another peel effect to the other excellent methods out there. I believe I mentioned I use the Ranger product but it is now difficult to find. I imagine other artists brands would work just as well.
Thanks again for your thoughts here.
I found on Amazon Ranger Texture Paste Opaque Crackle.
It does not indicate Clear rock Candy.
Not sure is this is the correct stuff.
3.9oz bottle for $10 bucks.
Steps:
1. Detail the wood as desired.
2. Stain/Color your base wood. This will be the color of the wood once the crackle paint is removed.
3. Apply the white crackle paint and let completely dry.
4. Scrape off crackle paint as desired.
Hope that helps.
I feel brain dead at times..lol
Your builds are fantastic and can't wait to see more on this Sheleb's build
of course n was normal.
a lot of work went into them thus far. The interiors will be more detailed once the upper half walls are done and attached. The bottom half is stud framing (obviously), while the upper half will be over templates. The interior of the upper half will be mostly hidden.
Lower level walls. Bare wood areas are covered by both the tool shop framing and the rear shed. The "people door" on the long wall with the large bare wood area is the access from the interior of the tool shed to the main facility.
Lower level interior walls. I have covered the interior of a few walls in my previous builds but decided to cover all the interior with tar paper on this build. I do this for a couple reasons; firstly, it gives the walls a more finished appearance and at the same time a dirty, grungy look. Secondly, the spaces between boards, when viewed from the outside when lit on the interior, gives distracting light seep. The tar paper covers much of this. And finally, the Interior details along the walls really show up and are highlighted well against the solid tar paper.
More later...