Thanks, Karl for your kind comments and advise. Coming from someone with your expertise and skill means a lot to me. So ten years, which kit was setting on the shelf for so long? Pappy, after watching your builds I really appreciate your praise. Thanks, Randy
I finely got all the metal castings blackened and polished. They came outer better than I expected after seeing them when they first came out of the blackener. While looking at them I noticed some of Brett's expertise in the art of casting. Take a look at what I thought were chisels. It turns out that they are files. If you look at the row of tools above the two files you should notice a few more files and at least two screw drivers. It is fun to find little surprises like this in the castings. one more picture of some of the larger white metal castings. Now all I need to do is paint and finish them to fit the scene. Thanks for looking. Randy
Did a fine job on the "blackening" Randy. This is a further example of what makes Brett's kits so special...the various materials used for detail parts; white metal, resin, 3D printed parts, laser cut, etc... each having its appropriate placement in the project. Great day and age to be modeling thanks to SWSM!...Look forward to seeing these detailed Randy.
Good looking start Randy, After all these years I still notice things on Bretts detail castings I hadn't noticed before.
If you put your fingertip on the file/screwdriver/wrenches/hammer heads and slide them around softly on that piece of paper it will polish all the raised edges and the detail will really pop out.
Thanks, KKarns and Karl for the complements and technique . Since this is my first SW build I am sure I will find a lot more "hidden" details as I progress. If you look at the picture of all the parts you may see that I broke the pick axe. I am thinking about setting up a scene with a welder at the big table welding back together. after waste not want not. Again thanks for the complements and advise. Randy
.... So ten years, which kit was setting on the shelf for so long?
My BlueSky walls that I finally finished the build on early last year were sitting on the shelf since 2011 waiting to go together. There's (atleast) another 5 builds still on that same shelf waiting for attention, I'll get back to them at some point, right now though, this thread is all about you so keep on inspiring us all with the great work.
I'll absolutely agree with Bryan, the best castings you can get.
First I want to thank Brett for sending me the palette jig. Got it yesterday. Now all I need to do is make a few for the truck repair. Last night I finished two more of the large resin castings. The large square work table and the cabinet for the gas cylinders. I wanted these two to be an the grungy side. Those drawers just begged for handels and of course with all the dirty hands there would be lots of oil and grease marks left on the drawer fronts. The shelf is just as weathered.
The side where the anvil will be would also get a lot of use and dirt. The shelf has dirt and wear marks on the back wall. The top of the square work table is beat and banged up. With streaks of dirt,rust, and scratches. The metal work area has some rust around the edges and a more shiney area in the center. Oops I forgot to turn the shelf over to the left side. Oh well it looks about the same as the right. If you see any thing that could have been better I can wash most of it off and start over. In fact this is the second time for the work table.
Here is the picture of the square work table. A lot of the marks in all the pictures were done with the AK Interactive weathering pencils. i especially like them for streaks and chips, like the light color streaks on the top of the table and the side of the shelf. The bottom of the table on the anvil side.
I have most of the 3D painted detail parts painted now. The far left high pressure with the valve detail is an S scale one from my order from Brett. The one next to it is O scale that hade valve detail. That valve along with the valve covers on three other tanks popped off when I was wire brush weathering the paint. The others are all O scale. While the 3D printed details have great detail they are very fragile. The three metal drums have the spots where the rim chipped. Maybe I am just heavy handed with the brush but I did not have that problem with the resin castings earelyer.
The 3D Printed parts are fragile! Those are scale details and thin. I could thicken them up to withstand that "heavy hand" but then they would look bad and out of scale. Gentle brother!
I did a little more work with 3D castings. Then I glazed the windows. I used two pieces of glass for each window so that when one broke it would not go from one side of the window to the other. Two broken and two cracked. I thought they came out good.
Thanks Robert, Karl, and Brett, I used a tooth pick to scrape the paint. Then dipped them in Rustall. The tin was done with the metallic weathering pencils. Robert, they look real because I did use microscope cover slips as Karl guessed. What better way to have a broken glass pane than to use real glass. I like to use real glass whenever possible. And Brett's two part windows make it much easier to accomplish. Thanks again for your comments.
I Have got the walls finished with windows, trim, and batins. As I stated earlier the windows are real grass. The battins were applied with a method I read some where else. May be you all already know it. Squeeze out a puddle of glue then drag the batton through the glue, wipe off the sides of the battin with my fingers, then place the battin in place. Any glue that squeezes out I wipe off with a soft cloth.
Comments
They came outer better than I expected after seeing them when they first came out of the blackener. While looking at them I noticed some of Brett's expertise in the art of casting. Take a look at what I thought were chisels.
It turns out that they are files. If you look at the row of tools above the two files you should notice a few more files and at least two screw drivers. It is fun to find little surprises like this in the castings. one more picture of some of the larger white metal castings.
Now all I need to do is paint and finish them to fit the scene. Thanks for looking. Randy
After all these years I still notice things on Bretts detail castings I hadn't noticed before.
If you put your fingertip on the file/screwdriver/wrenches/hammer heads and slide them around softly on that piece of paper it will polish all the raised edges and the detail will really pop out.
Keep up the great work and posts !!
There's (atleast) another 5 builds still on that same shelf waiting for attention, I'll get back to them at some point, right now though, this thread is all about you so keep on inspiring us all with the great work.
I'll absolutely agree with Bryan, the best castings you can get.
I wanted these two to be an the grungy side. Those drawers just begged for handels and of course with all the dirty hands there would be lots of oil and grease marks left on the drawer fronts. The shelf is just as weathered.
The side where the anvil will be would also get a lot of use and dirt. The shelf has dirt and wear marks on the back wall.
The top of the square work table is beat and banged up. With streaks of dirt,rust, and scratches. The metal work area has some rust around the edges and a more shiney area in the center. Oops I forgot to turn the shelf over to the left side. Oh well it looks about the same as the right. If you see any thing that could have been better I can wash most of it off and start over. In fact this is the second time for the work table.
Here is the picture of the square work table.
A lot of the marks in all the pictures were done with the AK Interactive weathering pencils. i especially like them for streaks and chips, like the light color streaks on the top of the table and the side of the shelf. The bottom of the table on the anvil side.
Then I glazed the windows. I used two pieces of glass for each window so that when one broke it would not go from one side of the window to the other. Two broken and two cracked. I thought they came out good.
you think they came out good, I'll have to agree with you.
Looks like you used microscope slide glass, nicely done.
The screw jacks are looking good too at this point,
the pictures make it hard to remember how small they really are.
Keep it coming...
As I stated earlier the windows are real grass. The battins were applied with a method I read some where else. May be you all already know it. Squeeze out a puddle of glue then drag the batton through the glue, wipe off the sides of the battin with my fingers, then place the battin in place. Any glue that squeezes out I wipe off with a soft cloth.
For now, nice work on the walls...
George