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Comments
I was actually following your build and inspired by you,
and your pictures in your build thread.
Indeed Phil, the mud was a quandry, i always appreciate your thoughts.
the footplate looks absolutely real. how did you achieve the effect?
is the yellow paint brushed on, dry brushed on, or air brushed on, cuz it looks great and i want mine to look like that too....
how selfish of me.
Brush painted with craft yellow, then scratched off with a fingernail and toothpick, back to black.
The resulting black texture damp brushed with 'aged steel' to give a metalic look.
Edges of chipped paint/bare metal area dusted with 411.3 dry chalk and blown off to get diffusion.
The hard edges, where the operator would mount were later dry brushed with 'aged steel' to get the effect of worn/bare metal.
The pieces were rattle canned with flat black before assembly.
After sub assemblies were epoxied together the yellow was craft paint 'sunshine' brushed on with a 1/2" soft brush, prob 3 coats.
A soft brush minimises brush marks, but the chipping and chalk hides anything thats still visible anyway.
For me, next, I need to 'bite the bullet' and strip down my Bates from this kit after I poorly did it ten or so years ago (unsatisfactorily) and re-do it. Then I can step back in to building and keep following your lead on this great kit.
A tear in the drivers seat with the foam showing underneath.
The paint is still a little wet/shiny and it needs a little chalk, but, I aint got time to be sitting around waiting for paint to dry right now. I'm happy with the result.
Paint dry and a little chalk to blend/dull.
/
I cut a pice of the tyvek material Brett uses for belts to fit over the seat with a little overhang at the front to curl over the edge.
I used the tyvek as I thought the texture would look like creased and worn PVC.
Regular paper would work if you dont have tyvek
Next I cut a staggered cross where I wanted the split and curled up the edges.
I painted a blob of raw sienna onto the seat where the split would be to represent foam, this seemed a good color to my eye.
The seat cover was then painted black and the front edge curled to match the resin seat.
Glue was then added to the back of the cover and put in place
Lightly dry brushed with hippo grey to enhance the texture and the split edges.
Very lightly dusted with 408.9 to dull.
Quick and easy with a great original result.
My technique for lighting the forge...
I obviously just slapped some black paint on there not being careful, and used a cheap little flicker LED, but, you get the idea, besides, it's deep inside the structure.
Hollow the casting out from the top,
Get rid of all of the resin that's blocking the light from coming up and out.
then..
Install the lights into the vacuous space.
Crumple some clear cellophane and stuff it into the cavity over the lights to fill the void.
Light up the lights and you will have a multi faceted display of orange flickering color.
While lit touch the top 'crinkles/creases' with a little black paint to simulate new coal... about 20% , you want way more light than dark.
You aint gonna get any metal soft enough to work with if you aint got plenty of heat !!!
***As Brett correctly advises "Wear a mask !"***
Jerry
i will be copying you on the forge however....