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#301 Logging and Tractor Repair Shed (O Scale). Karl.A
Desk cleaned up from the other projects I'm working on, but are stagnant, tools put away so I can find them, (theoretically) and now its time to pre-read the 'bible' for a couple of hours and familiarize myself with the steps involved for this great kit.
Construction starts tomorrow, unless I get really motivated tonight...
Construction starts tomorrow, unless I get really motivated tonight...
Comments
Terry
this is the first time I'll be starting a new build from the beginning since (I think) 2014, so, I'll be taking my time on this one, re-learning, re-reading and refreshing.
I've got a few ideas, but it's gonna be Brett's manual and instructions all the way, you can't go wrong with that approach I've learned.
Jerry
Always good to have your encouragement my friend and the push/nudge to get there.
I did the first steps on the main siding over the weekend. Still more to do but I did the basic graining of the strip wood, added knots to about 1/3 of the boards and then gave them the first basic coloring for the interior side.
Next step will be to get that "silver grey" color on the other (exterior) side of these boards, distress them appropriately and start applying them to Brett's awesome laser cut wall frames, (which I have already colored and are ready).
I think I want to try and get a more dilapidated, run-down look on this build, more inline with the finish I did on my "#303 Rigging Shed" build. I'm looking to recapture that run down, backwoods, unkept, and neglected feel.
Emery, I think it took me just over 3 hours just to do the knots, 25 boards, 12 per board so about 300.
Here's another tip/trick for you.
I do 2-3 sizes of hole, so I load up my small bit, grab 5or6 boards and stack them, but stagger them slightly. Then drill through all 5 boards at once, do this randomly down the length of the stack. Place them down, still staggered and grab another 5 and repeat.
Once all the small holes are done I swap in my bigger bit and repeat.
This is obviously 5 times faster than doing the boards one at a time.
Learning, using, mastering and understanding these techniques will elevate pretty much every modelers results. Once mastered these techniques provide a very solid foundation for all aspects of our modeling.
Although using Brett's techniques alone will provide outstanding, award wining results when followed directly, sometimes we need something specific for a situation. Having a solid understanding of how and why these methods work, we can, after much practice 'adapt' them for a special need.
Here is one of those situations.
""Separate colors on each side of the strip wood.""
Grain, distress and knot as usual.
For this to work extra care needs to be taken in the coloring each side, we cant just go at it 'flooding' with ipa as we usually would for a single color, so here's the next steps.
Side 1:
Grab 5 or so boards and place them on a clean area, hold them snuggly together and perfectly flat.
Scrape the selected shades of chalk onto the boards, take extra care to minimize getting chalk on the area and just get it on the boards.
Use just enough ipa to dissolve the chalks and make the stain
Avoid getting the stain on the work surface and do not let the boards move around. Keeping the boards snug together prevents the stain getting between the boards and seeping underneath
Once happy with the color lift the boards one by one straight up and move to dry
there should be very little chalk/stain/ipa on the work surface, wipe this clean.
repeat for all of the boards.
once dry grab 5 boards and flip them over. there should be very little chalk on the backside hopefully almost none.
This chalk wasn't flooded with ipa if you were careful in step one, and therefor not soaked in, it should just be on the surface. A couple of light swipes with steel wool should clean it right off.
Now its time for Side 2...
Side 2
Is pretty much a repeat of side 1 but with your different colors of choice.
Again use as much care as you can to only get the chalk and ipa on the top of the boards and keep them snug and stationary.
Once dry if there is a minimal amount of chalk that makes its way to the other (first) side it should be easy to remove with a light swipe of steel wool. Go lightly this time as it will blur your variation slightly on your finished first side, but, these boards will later receive more work and weathering as, and after they are installed.
So, it’s still using the same foundation techniques we've learned from the best manuals available in our hobby, after much practice and gaining an understanding of how and why they work, they can be utilized in so many ways.
Jerry
Thanks Phil, its pretty easy in HO too, I did it on the HO Locoshop build, as the base for the peeled paint walls. Also the water tank on that diorama actually has 3 different colors on it.