Continuing with the series I started earlier this year regarding opening some classic SW kits and building them, I am currently building Foss Clam & Oyster Co. This is a small kit, but still an enjoyable build. It is typical of SW kits with all the great information in the instructions and of course details. Here is my version of Foss Clam & Oyster Co.
Following the instructions I weathered the clapboard siding walls with a wire brush added nail holes, weathered boards and stained them with A/I.
For the nail holes I follow the instructions in the kit for their placement. I also use a drafting triangle butted up against on a 1/4" square strip of wood that comes with most SW kits for alignment on the bottom of the wall. Place the wall against the wood strip and the triangle over the wall and butted up against the strip. This is shown nicely in the instructions.
Then I use a dental pick that I got from my dentist. At one dental appointment I asked him if he had any dental tools he was no longer using, and explained what I was going to use them for. He had a drawer full of assorted picks he no longer used and happily gave about a half dozen assorted picks to me. I had been going to him for many years and probably paid for those tools many times over. Here is a picture of the one I use. It is very sharp and should remain so for a long time as the metal is very hard. It makes a nice fine round point.
Here are the walls after coloring them. The instructions call for using a Terry Cloth towel dipped in paint then most of the paint blotted off the towel. I use a piece of sponge torn off a larger sponge. It's easier to handle and I think gives nice results. You add paint to the sponge, blot most of it off then just dab the paint on the wall in a random pattern. Before the paint dries I brush it out to streak it a bit. This allows the weathering of the wood and nail holes to show through, and I think blends the color a little. After it dries I lightly sand the wall randomly for more weathering. Then I hit it again lightly with a wire brush.
I find that sanding the wall after painting sands through all the painting and weathering and the raw wood shows through again. For the final brushing I use a brass bristle brush. In my experience a brass brush grey's the wood a little and the sanded parts aren't as harsh.
Now for the finished walls before assembly. Unfortunately the transfer decals must have been too old as they disintegrated when trying to apply them to the walls. I especially liked the sign with all the signs on the peaked wall with the advertising. As I applied it the letters just crumbled. Fortunately I was able to save most of the Foss sign above the front wall. It too started crumbling upon application but enough of it shows through so as to look weathered.
I love signs and think they add a lot to the structure so have incorporated some here as well.
Tom, really good work. Your choice of the color and its application was the right call. The end product is very believable and nice to look at. Sorry about the decals. I've heard that if you spray dullcote on the decals before applying, they stay together better. Anyway, the overall looks is really nice. Phil
Thanks for the nice comments guys. I appreciate them coming from a great group of modelers.
Phil, I have heard about spraying older decals with dullcote of acrylic matte medium, but these are dry transfer decals and I don't think they would stick as well if sprayed. This is one of Brett's older kits and I think the dry transfers just dried out over time.
There is a Coke button included with the kit that I really like. There are some Coca Cola dry transfer decals included that I was hoping to use. I have tried to apply one of them without success. Hopefully I can get one of them to work. I do have another Coca Cola sign I will be applying after assembling the structure walls.
Thanks for the compliments guy. I found a solution to my coke button sign. After 2 tries at using the dry transfer decals with no luck, I went online and found a photo of a button and saved it and resized it to fit the button sign in the kit. I sanded it ultra thin to almost transparent then glued it to the button. I like how it turned out.
I did the same thing for the coke machine. In a close up photo this one doesn't quite match as well as the button, but in real life it looks pretty good.
Here is the final model. It is not on a diorama, just as it is built.
Note to self! I love signs on a structure, but while it's easier to apply signs to a wall before assembling the structure, check to be sure there is no obstruction like a stairway, detail part, or piling that will block the sign!
Comments
Then I use a dental pick that I got from my dentist. At one dental appointment I asked him if he had any dental tools he was no longer using, and explained what I was going to use them for. He had a drawer full of assorted picks he no longer used and happily gave about a half dozen assorted picks to me. I had been going to him for many years and probably paid for those tools many times over. Here is a picture of the one I use. It is very sharp and should remain so for a long time as the metal is very hard. It makes a nice fine round point.
I find that sanding the wall after painting sands through all the painting and weathering and the raw wood shows through again. For the final brushing I use a brass bristle brush. In my experience a brass brush grey's the wood a little and the sanded parts aren't as harsh.
I love signs and think they add a lot to the structure so have incorporated some here as well.
Phil, I have heard about spraying older decals with dullcote of acrylic matte medium, but these are dry transfer decals and I don't think they would stick as well if sprayed. This is one of Brett's older kits and I think the dry transfers just dried out over time.
There is a Coke button included with the kit that I really like. There are some Coca Cola dry transfer decals included that I was hoping to use. I have tried to apply one of them without success. Hopefully I can get one of them to work. I do have another Coca Cola sign I will be applying after assembling the structure walls.
I did the same thing for the coke machine. In a close up photo this one doesn't quite match as well as the button, but in real life it looks pretty good.
Next on to the pier.
http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/uploads/imageupload/960/FYSFR5IZ4KIL.jpg
Eye candy at its best! "Mmm, Mmm, Good!M
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Note to self! I love signs on a structure, but while it's easier to apply signs to a wall before assembling the structure, check to be sure there is no obstruction like a stairway, detail part, or piling that will block the sign!