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Comments
You know another good thread would be what kind or brand paint brushes hold up the best for detail painting. I have bought countless brushes over the years and most have curled at the tip and frayed. I clean my brushes thoroughly after each use and store them bristled down until they are dry. Still have problems. Frustrating trying to paint small details with frayed brushes. I have purchased brushes from Hobby Lobby, Michael's and even a local art supply store with similar results. Although the expensive art supply store brushes have held up better for me but still have issues.
I look forward to your feedback and thoughts once you get a chance to use them.
That's probably what I will have to start doing, recognizing when a brush is going bad and buying a new one. I guess I try to extend their life too long. I have some natural bristle brushes that I have had for over 30 years, they are larger sizes, and they have held up very well over time. I have no idea when or where I got them, but was hoping to find some more like those. They are starting to lose bristles. My detail brushes are the ones I use most and those are the ones I was hoping would last longer. Thanks for the suggestion.
What is the site you have found for the AK acrylics?
I have had really good luck buying paint from several eBay sellers.
Much easier to get a good look with them.
I am also interested in your feedback and also listing of the colors you are trying out.
Brett, thanks for your thoughts on these as well.
Thanks guys, much appreciated,
--Paul
For painting the castings and figures, I only use the best quality brushes made from kolinsky sable hairs. Nothing more frustrating than paint brushes with hairs that turn into rastafarian hairdu's after little use.
Question for you Robert - So the AK interactive REAL COLORS are "acrylic lacquer paints". I am unfamiliar with this type. What do you thin it with and what advantages/disadvantages do they have over traditional water based or solvent paints?
For the Real Color line, they are thinned with any brand lacquer thinner, Tamya,AK, Mr. Hobby, Gaia, or plain alcohol. No water, or acryllic thinners. That will turn the paint into gum. No window cleaners or similar as it contains water or ammonia. Don't use them !
That also means the paint dries fairly quick. With acryllic paints, you can add a retarder.
They also have, like any lacquer paint a stronger odor than acryllic paints.
They have SUPER coverage with very little paint. As with the spraygun as with the brush. Even without primer. For the spraygun, a 50 to 70% diluting works fine. I dilude for brushwork aswel .
When dry, they are extremely tough. Will take any kind of weathering.
And as far as this is important for us , not military modelers, a huge range of original colors taken from real samples. I would say, get one bottle and give it a try.
The bottlles are the same as the Tamya ones. With on top and on the bottom the color visible. This makes it very easy to pick the color you need and stir the paint before using.
And these type of bottles don't tip over like the tall acryllic ones.
The Real Color paints mix with any lacquer paint, not with acryllic paints. Turns to gum.
They dry dead flat. As mat as can be! No sheen at all. Just like chalk paint or the Tamya paints.
So, I hope this gives you guys an idea of this type of paint. I do not have any interest in AK, but they do have good products.
Of course, I never used Reaper, Floquil so I can't compare.
Perhaps, Eric can give his opinion as an artist on the brushes.
Colors are quite accurate.
Left to right or top to bottom
Top picture send
Top fresh cut timber
Bottom light grey
Next picture down
Wood base
Middle grey
Next picture down
Dark wood grain
Light grey brown
As so on as indicated on boxes
Top colors are warm Vol. One
Bottom colors are cold Vol. Two
The book by AK interactive entitled
Realistic Wood Effects is well worth it. As are the videos on you tube.
My opinion. For small items barrels, wood tools, resin castings, very good. Walls of especially an O scale kit. Toooooo expensive.
A set is 22 dollars for six tiny bottles.
Kevin videos are exceptional. Combining acrylics with enamels like Robert does it.
You set up your work station and do a shit load at a time. Especially if you have a lit if castings that were bought as sets from Brett or left overs. I go quite a few from Deco. Good but not great. A very good weathering job can make them very good. I suggest do some as you watch the Packers best Da Bears. Maybe.
Unless AR had his head up his ass like Sunday.
i'm gonna switch to macrame.....
Crusted rust set: AK4110
Engine & Metal weathering set: AK087
Streaking effects set: AK062
Leather & Buckles set: AK3030
Slimy grime light (single): AK027
Slimy grime dark (single): AK026
Fuel Stains (single): AK025
Moss deposits (single): AK676
There are many, many more, but these seemed most pertinent.
I also grabbed a set of flesh tones and uniform sets for painting the mechanics figures someday.