Thanks for the product info...I’m going to include a tube with my next order from competitionminis.com ....also found it at Hobby Lobby and Amazon but a little more expensive Terry
Thanks Robert. I knew of the product, but had never tried it. Like everything else, you have to try it so I decided it was time to jump in. I'll have it and some sculpting tools in a couple days. We will see how this comes out.......Rick
Here is what I attempted. First is the raw joint, the worst of them, the putty applied, the base coat paint then the final coloring. It is a great improvement, but not perfect. I will see how the other wall joints come out.....Rick
Here is my thinking. The photo above is greatly enlarged to see the extremely fine detail. Remember, this is HO. I am not able to duplicate the fantastic carving of the original wall. Here is the entire wall for better perspective.
I will work on it more, but just how far can I take it as well as knowing a lot of this will be behind details in the final scene? I'm not cheaping out here, just wondering how far I am capable and willing to go.
What my eye picks out of this is that the remaining seams line up—the only ones on the entire wall that do so. Having built this kit, I know they’re there. But would a casual observer see them? Especially if you’re going to hide them behind details.
The seam turned out really nice. It is difficult to hide a vertical seam like that. On my build I just ignored the seam. It is difficult to hide something like that.
It's been too long since my last post. Progress has been slow, but I have completed the basic foundry building/work room/office. The roof details are a bit challenging, but well worth the effort. Some additional weathering still to come.
Next is finally getting the docks and the start of the diorama. The fun begins.
As I started to look at the diorama and detailing, I realized many do wonderful work, but not much is said about the track. It is also an integral part of any diorama. We are model RAILROADERS after all. I wanted to get the track down before the buildings for ease of access. I model standard gauge so the height of the floor or deck of the freight cars are higher than narrow gauge cars. I want the deck to be close to the same height as the dock. To accomplish this, I carve out the foam to lower the track. I start by laying the ties already grained and stained. How random they are depends on personal taste.
I then ballast before laying rail. Much easier to control.
The level of repair/disrepair is again personal choice. I decided my track would be a bit better than the randomly laid straight on the ties most modelers do so I added Monster Modelworks tie plates.
I notched the rail part way through to simulate the rail joints while maintaining good electrical continuity for future installation in the layout, added rail joint bars and painted the rail with red oxide primer before spiking it in place using Micro Engineering micro spikes. A few tie plates are out from under the rail where ties moved.
Still to come are some loose spikes, vegetation, oil spills, trash, etc. when I get to that stage of scenery on the whole diorama.....Rick
Wow Rick.... hand made track. That is seriously good!! Sorry men, I can't go there. I want to see my railroad run before I start pushing up daisies. It is damn impressive though!! Well done sir.
Comments
Terry
Thoughts?
I will work on it more, but just how far can I take it as well as knowing a lot of this will be behind details in the final scene? I'm not cheaping out here, just wondering how far I am capable and willing to go.
Rick
While I was waiting for several coats to dry, I made good progress on the office.
Now I need to address lighting before I do the roofs.....Rick
Next is finally getting the docks and the start of the diorama. The fun begins.
Rick
I wanted to get the track down before the buildings for ease of access. I model standard gauge so the height of the floor or deck of the freight cars are higher than narrow gauge cars. I want the deck to be close to the same height as the dock. To accomplish this, I carve out the foam to lower the track. I start by laying the ties already grained and stained. How random they are depends on personal taste.
I then ballast before laying rail. Much easier to control.
The level of repair/disrepair is again personal choice. I decided my track would be a bit better than the randomly laid straight on the ties most modelers do so I added Monster Modelworks tie plates.
I notched the rail part way through to simulate the rail joints while maintaining good electrical continuity for future installation in the layout, added rail joint bars and painted the rail with red oxide primer before spiking it in place using Micro Engineering micro spikes. A few tie plates are out from under the rail where ties moved.
Still to come are some loose spikes, vegetation, oil spills, trash, etc. when I get to that stage of scenery on the whole diorama.....Rick