Now that my seminary classes are finished for the term, I am taking the summer off so I dangerously have some extra time. Over the last few days, I have been the "mad scientist" setting up a series of experiments to see if I can chemically enhance the aging process of acrylic paint on wood. I naively thought that perhaps I could get the paint to turn scaly, but I did learn some things.
I bought some craft sticks, grained them, put some knotholes in, and tried various combinations. One was a "pre-treatment" using a homemade blend of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil. The lower stick in each of the pairs in the photo had that pre-treatment and the top one did not.
The other variable was the "post-treatment"; the top set had denatured alcohol brushed on, the second set had denatured alcohol sprayed on, the third set had acetone sprayed on, and the last set had mineral spirits sprayed on. Lost yet? :-)
I rubbed them all with an artificial steel wool (perhaps too much pressure in some cases). My conclusion is that the pre-treatment seems to make a difference, and the mineral spirits "top dressing" may also be helpful.
This was also a great way to get a little experience with the brushing technique and I learned that I need more practice with that.
I took similar wood that I was modeling with and colored a strip that measures out to 8" wide in O scale for each of my different chalks. That way...I had a color sample of the end result. It also helps to keep a record of how you textured, colored, and weather the wood on each project. In particular the Foundry as you will not have all of the wood in the first installment. This way you can match up stuff with the previous box that Brett sends you. I also take and print a photo of the samples so I can pull them from my files. You can also find other quality pastel chalks of other colors that you can use for final detailing....just make sure they are not an oil or pasty type base...as the alcohol with not work well on them. Sticking with the Rembrants ais a good idea in the beginning.
Nice results, although I must warn about the use of linseed oil. It takes a very long time to dry, I mean months, and glueing it may give you troubles. The only way to use it safely is to glue first, then putting on the oil. ( well, it goes like that in furniture making and restoration). By adding siccatif ( I don't know the word in English, but it is a drying agent) the oil dries faster. It is used by oil painters.
Here is a sample of the boards for the first part of the foundry - the Pattern Shop. I feared covering up the graining et al when I painted. I'm not sure if this is the right look, but I am pleased with it. It does look like I went overboard on the saw banding, though.
Thanks Robert for the warning about Boiled Linseed Oil. I wonder if combining it with Mineral Spirits will help it dry faster. I am hoping to start gluing the boards to the cardboard form next week, so I'll find out if my "mad scientist" approach did more harm than good.
Your combination of wood grain weathering and saw banding looks good. Mixing in just weathered boards helps make the saw banded boards stand out very well. Possibly add more of the just weathered boards to the mix for your wall and see if you like that look.
I think you're right Jay. Most details, like the saw banding, less is more and should often be used sparingly. Your coloring and weathering of the boards looks terrific.
Looking wonderful, going to make an awesome pattern shop. I wouldn't worry about the banding. Once the boards are cut up and scattered on the wall it will all blend together. I agree with Dave, more plain boards w/o banding is a good way to go forward with these.
Finally something to show for my efforts. I do feel a bit like I am posting a crayon scrawl on the refrigerator in comparison to the fine work of others, but at least I am making a bit of progress.
Looks absolutely fantastic. Not sure why you feel it's not quality work. I would be most pleased with those walls! You have laid a wonderful foundation for the remainder of the kit.
Jay, great start with those walls. You can't really compare your work to other work. It's a losing proposition. Your goal should be - am I achieving the look I want? If not, let us know what you are trying to achieve and someone will let you know how to get there. I had difficulty getting a great rust effect, but members of this forum gave me a number of techniques that worked for me. Phil
Your work looks really good to me. One of the best things about Brett's kits, is if you follow his instructions you will end up with a quality build no matter the skill level. It is what really set his kits apart from others. Every kit teaches you new techniques. Keep up the good work.
I like the walls. You could fade out the lettering a bit if you like to match the paint wear on the walls. I'd go with light sandpaper to just take a bit off the top.
Looks terrific Jay. I know what you mean about posting amongst giants on this forum.The loco shed is my first build for me and it was a bit intimidating taking on the build and publishing it but everyone here is nothing but helpful and Brett’s directions make it pretty foolproof.
Yup, I'm chiming in on those walls look great Jay!...I also agree with Bryan on the weathering but of course you're talking to one who loves grunge. Either way it looks really nice.
As all have said.....your work is very good....you should be pleased with what you've done. We all get better with the more we do. Be very pleased with what you've done.
Comments
Now that my seminary classes are finished for the term, I am taking the summer off so I dangerously have some extra time. Over the last few days, I have been the "mad scientist" setting up a series of experiments to see if I can chemically enhance the aging process of acrylic paint on wood. I naively thought that perhaps I could get the paint to turn scaly, but I did learn some things.
I bought some craft sticks, grained them, put some knotholes in, and tried various combinations. One was a "pre-treatment" using a homemade blend of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil. The lower stick in each of the pairs in the photo had that pre-treatment and the top one did not.
The other variable was the "post-treatment"; the top set had denatured alcohol brushed on, the second set had denatured alcohol sprayed on, the third set had acetone sprayed on, and the last set had mineral spirits sprayed on. Lost yet? :-)
I rubbed them all with an artificial steel wool (perhaps too much pressure in some cases).
My conclusion is that the pre-treatment seems to make a difference, and the mineral spirits "top dressing" may also be helpful.
This was also a great way to get a little experience with the brushing technique and I learned that I need more practice with that.
You can also find other quality pastel chalks of other colors that you can use for final detailing....just make sure they are not an oil or pasty type base...as the alcohol with not work well on them. Sticking with the Rembrants ais a good idea in the beginning.
i like both.
By adding siccatif ( I don't know the word in English, but it is a drying agent) the oil dries faster. It is used by oil painters.
Here is a sample of the boards for the first part of the foundry - the Pattern Shop. I feared covering up the graining et al when I painted. I'm not sure if this is the right look, but I am pleased with it. It does look like I went overboard on the saw banding, though.
Thanks Robert for the warning about Boiled Linseed Oil. I wonder if combining it with Mineral Spirits will help it dry faster. I am hoping to start gluing the boards to the cardboard form next week, so I'll find out if my "mad scientist" approach did more harm than good.
Your combination of wood grain weathering and saw banding looks good. Mixing in just weathered boards helps make the saw banded boards stand out very well. Possibly add more of the just weathered boards to the mix for your wall and see if you like that look.
Later, Dave S.
Rick
Finally something to show for my efforts. I do feel a bit like I am posting a crayon scrawl on the refrigerator in comparison to the fine work of others, but at least I am making a bit of progress.
Rick
I had difficulty getting a great rust effect, but members of this forum gave me a number of techniques that worked for me. Phil