Finally had a few hours to spend on the model. The strip wood is dry so the first thing I did was look at each piece carefully and find the best pieces and set them aside. Then I found the worst ones where the peeling paint wasn't realistic and I put them aside too. I started with the two most visible walls and used mostly the really good strip wood. I used an old wood burner I use for marquetry projects to "rot" away the bottom of the front wall. I have to tone it down and add details but it's a good base.
The left wall was also completed. I don't weather my butted board ends. I usually just try and use the cut ends of the stripwood as it comes from Brett. I use the bad stripwood under the doors where it will be blocked by loading docks. There is so much extra strip wood included I pretty much stuck to the ones I liked. I chose each piece specifically for contrast and weathering, trying to make the wall interesting and believable. Still lots to detail.
Finished the base of the second set of walls. I added a little more paint to the top of the walls where the paint might have been better protected from the elements. I also added a few nail holes on the board ends. The pictures make the red much brighter than it is. I will be doing a wash to unify the walls a bit.
While waiting for the paint to dry on the windows and doors I had a few minutes to cobble together the track for the large door. Very easy with the instructions provided. I added some carriage bolts to secure it to the wall. I just used rivet decals, pretty simple. Hope to paint it tomorrow and maybe start work on the windows.
I think I was born in the dark zone... I can echo Ed's statement; extremely well done!!!! Question, do you find it easier to glue the styreen first and then paint it? Matter of not touching the wood with the rust paint .
Thanks Phil. Robert I do glue it all together and then I will paint it and weather it and then install it on the wall. It is just resting there for the photo.
Thanks Jerry. I added a bit of rust to my door track. I started working on my doors. I took each piece and after spray painting I added some wood grain with an xacto knife Then I weathered it with a bid of dry chalk powder and taped off each separate board with masking tape so I could use the damp brushing with fan brush technique. Only took about 5 minutes per door and I prefer the effect over just dabbing the paint on. After it was dry I added a bit of dark grey chalk to bring out some of the details. Still have to glue it together and add the glazing.
Joel, it's like sausage making. Not great to look at when it's in processing, but oh what a great look when you're finished!!! You have to trust the process. Thanks. Phil
Thanks. I finished up the doors and I'm now working on the windows. I always find my broken glass lacking so like with my repair shop I googled broken window and had hundreds of great patterns to choose from. i reduced the photo in black and white and traced the fracture lines. I dusted with a bit of chalk so the lines would pop a bit. Here is the back wall with the track and doors placed in position (just waiting for the oil paint to dry before properly gluing in place)
Comments
The left wall was also completed. I don't weather my butted board ends. I usually just try and use the cut ends of the stripwood as it comes from Brett. I use the bad stripwood under the doors where it will be blocked by loading docks. There is so much extra strip wood included I pretty much stuck to the ones I liked. I chose each piece specifically for contrast and weathering, trying to make the wall interesting and believable.
Still lots to detail.
Jerry
Robert I do glue it all together and then I will paint it and weather it and then install it on the wall. It is just resting there for the photo.
I added a bit of rust to my door track.
I started working on my doors. I took each piece and after spray painting I added some wood grain with an xacto knife
Then I weathered it with a bid of dry chalk powder and taped off each separate board with masking tape so I could use the damp brushing with fan brush technique.
Only took about 5 minutes per door and I prefer the effect over just dabbing the paint on. After it was dry I added a bit of dark grey chalk to bring out some of the details.
Still have to glue it together and add the glazing.
Jerry
I dusted with a bit of chalk so the lines would pop a bit.
Here is the back wall with the track and doors placed in position (just waiting for the oil paint to dry before properly gluing in place)