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Comments
Robert, the stencil is easy to use but practice helps. Luckily a friend made me some stencils for my railroad several years ago so I could stencil buildings, cars, etc. A couple tricks I learned are as follows.
To do this wall required 2 stencils. The one on the left is the mask for the black. Brett suggests using low tack spray adhesive to fix it. I did not have any on hand and did not feel like going to get any so I used double sided tape, trimmed to shape. You want this so the spray does not get underneath the stencil. Take the first one off when finished, then I used painters tape on all 4 sides to secure the 2nd stencil. Get it lined up and secure one side with tape, then secure the opposite side. Then the last 2 sides. Then go back and loosen the first side and re-secure it. This is to remove any bowing in the stencil that happened when you secured all 4 sides. Loosen and reattach the rest of the sides.
The right brush is essential. This is the brush I used. I have a smaller one also for doing freight cars. I do 1 letter at a time starting in the upper right. I hold the stencil firm with my left hand, 1 letter to the left of where I am working. Dip brush in paint, dap a couple times on scrap paper. The lightly dab over the stencil...10 light dabs is better than 2 heavy dabs. Dab until you are satisfied then move 1 letter to the left, repeat until done.
Paint color is a personal choice but stay away from pure white. For the blacksmith stencil I used "SW light gray" followed by "SW bone". For this stencil I used bone only.
Advise for everyone, if you buy one, get the best you can .afford. You also buy the best kits don,t you....
I removed all rows from the sheet and secured one end to work top with double sided tape. I mixed up some black paint and airbrush thinner about 1:1. Working about 3 rows at a time, paint with mixture. While still wet sprinkle on sand. This is very fine sand with uniform bits. Give it a while to dry then brush off and use razor blade to scrape shingles from glass. Inspect for missed spots and re-do them. Gently run #11 blade down each space between shingles in case it got closed up by the gunk. It's about like sand paper at this point. If I had to guess, I'd say about 120 grit. No other paints or finishes at this time. This is how it came out.
I got the tarpaper installed on the Tempering Shed. I wanted a texture like the example photos here. I installed the paper per the instructions then added a layer of single ply tissue and used a grimy black wash to secure it. Once dry I added the battens. Further weathering to come. For the roof, I made a roof out of 1x8 and 1x12 boards then made tissue sheets of tarpaper to be able to see the wood texture underneath. Used a lighter grimy black wash on this but it must be painted prior to installation...I lay them out on glass, paint then when dry, scrape up with a razor blade. I secured it to the roof with Gravel Fixer.
Muddy, I did not do the same technique on the red roof. Not saying I won't go back and do it, just put it on as directed.
Phil, it will be easy to chalk up as you describe.
I did a small area dry-stacked stone wall with a sponge painting technique. So far I'm liking it better than anything else I've tried.
Paint casting with very light gray primer. It's almost white and white may actually work as well. As you can see here I need to wait a while for this to dry before proceeding. I used a spray can...Robert I did not get my airbrush yet. Had it in the cart and everything, but couldn't justify the cost at this time...so we have to wait for the spray paint to dry.
May lose some of the surface detail on this side of the casting as it was painted a dark gray earlier while I was doing the same tests on light and dark.
Tools required for this are in the first picture. Not much as you can see. I put 6ish drops of military gray paint in the cup and squirted in 2 pumps of water from a spray bottle. Very precise! Swirl it around and get started.
Have a paper towel handy. Dip just the tip of the sponge lightly into paint and take off excess on paper towel. Start dabbing lightly onto the casting. Notice in picture 3 the little pools of gray paint. Work those around. You want a nice mottled effect like the stone on the bottom left. You can take off excess paint by drying sponge with towel and using sponge to soak up excess paint. Do this over entire casting. Step 1 done.
Put 2-3 drops of same paint on your glass and add a couple drops of your wash and stir it up. Repeat step 1.
Put 2-3 drops of same paint on your glass and do not add anything. Repeat step 1 VERY lightly. The last picture shows the depth of color we can get from using a single color in different concentrations.
This entire process took about 15 minutes.