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Comments

  • TomH
    Thanks Rick. That base was not easy but I agree well worth it. I’ve said this before but I’ll repeat for anyone new reading this. Do not be afraid to jump in and “get your fingers dirty”.
    This is the first time I’ve really built anything in years and if I can do it, anybody can. I have zero natural ability for this stuff. It’s all been following tips from the forum and Brett’s instructions.
    Ed,
    I didn’t notice that. It’s actually a lazy Susan and flat but the angle really looks like it’s sitting on a ball. Too funny.
  • KCSTrainsKCSTrains
    Tom, great work on the tank. I like the idea of a lazy susan on the work bench. Hmmm!! Phil
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    edited June 2020
    Looking great Tom, I loved building the water tower, its a mini kit all on its own, as is the oil tank. Both are intricate and look incredible when finished, yet the simple steps in the manual make it easy to do.
    Youre doing great so far and its looking really good, keep following Bretts instructions and you wont go wrong.

    Phil, a lasy susan is a must on your bench, they make it so great to spin the model around and see all the angles, esp at the end when you get to diorama and scenery work/completion.

    You know the SierraWest way... so detailed it looks great from any angle...
  • TomH
    Thanks guys. Karl I agree that either the water tank or oil tank would make awesome stand alone kits. Combine that with everything else this kit comes with and the customer service and you start to see the real value that Brett provides.
  • TomH
    IMG_0897
  • TomH
    Roof to the pump room under the oil tank.
    I've decided not to use the acid to etch it so I went with oil paints and will add chalks on top to finish it off.
    Before I move ahead I wanted to ask for other opinions.
    Please let me know if you think I'm way off or close or should just suck it up and work with the acid?
  • TomH
    I went ahead with it.
    Pretty happy with the result and the roof on this is a pretty small and mostly covered detail but what about the roof for the car shop?
    I like the end result but I'm open to alternatives too.

    IMG_0900
  • MountaingoatMountaingoat
    Your roof is as good or better as the acid method without the hazardous process. Stay with it.....Rick
  • MitchNMitchN
    It looks like you saved the corrugated panels.

    The original look of the shiny metal with the orange rust was not realistic looking and you posted the panels for comments. Absent any feedback, you went with your instinct and from what I can see in the picture dulled the shiny metal down with pastel. In the last picture you posted the base color of the panels look grey. You made a good choice.

    I was warned away from using the acid by other modelers long ago. It is a risk/reward situation. The acid makes a great looking panel but is it worth the health risk. Your rusty panels look fine. Why take the risk?



  • JohnM2104JohnM2104
    Tom, it looks great and whatever works best for you is usually the way to go. I've been working on different techniques for this now myself on individual corrugated aluminum like Campbell and this most recent piece which I found downstairs from an old Woodland Scenics kit from well over 20 years ago. It's one solid piece for an old work shed which I think came out pretty good.Corrugated roof resized
  • TomH
    Thanks for the feedback guys.
    Yes, I dulled them down a bit and just went with it.
    John that panel above looks terrific.
  • JohnM2104JohnM2104
    Started off with Floquil Old Silver, followed by 2 different washes of rust. Rembrandt chalks brought it all together and then a shot of Dullcote.
  • JohnM2104JohnM2104
    I forgot to mention that after the 2 rust washes, I used Poly S RR tie brown. I take a small sponge, blot off most of the paint and then lightly press down on the roofing with the sponge. Then I use the chalks
  • TomH
    I used a sponge as well.
    I assume that’s a casting? It sure doesn’t look like one piece.
  • JohnM2104JohnM2104
    Yes, Tom, it's a very old one-piece casting. I was down in the basement looking for something and came upon a small parts tray with many pieces which I pieced together for a small, fun project where I could get back into painting and weathering. In any event, the small shack will be much better appreciated on the layout than in a drawer!
    Happy modeling
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Looks good Tom. For those who dislike the acid etch, baking in the oven, and/or the work involved in covering up shiny metal...there's always paper corrugated...

    I personally still use the acid etch method as it really is the only way to get that thin, worn look to the panels. The key to that stuff is it not only weathers the metal but will thin it down nicely to scale. If you can tolerate the process they do look really good. I do a large batch occasionally and have a stash of 1:87 panels ready to go...Ken
  • TomH
    Hmmm
    Now you’ve got me thinking Ken
    Might have to try the acid method
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Tom, what you can also do is encourage the acid to eat away certain areas by poking a hole in the panel or cut the edge a bit. Stuff is not as bad as made out to be...its an acid and treat it accordingly. Two things to make sure...don't leave in the solution very long at all once it starts bubbling and rinse the panels several times in water to remove all the etchant once done. If you put a bunch of panels in the acid and it starts working (bubbling) you will not have time to remove each panel before they are completely eaten away. So, what I do is put the panels in a glass bowl with the etchant not more than 1/3 full. When the etchant starts working I grab one panel to see what it looks like with forceps. If it's good I then quickly pour in clean water to fill the bowl...this essentially stops the reaction on all the panels. Agitate carefully then pour off the stained water and refill with clean. I do this several times until the water is clean after soaking. Then lay the panels on a paper towel to dry
  • Oldman
    edited June 2020
    KKarns said: <<I grab one panel to see what it looks like with forceps. If it's good I then quickly pour in clean water to fill the bowl...this essentially stops the reaction on all the panels. Agitate carefully then pour off the stained water and refill with clean. I do this several times until the water is clean after soaking.>>

    A couple questions, Ken. First thank you for posting your method. What is the material of the forceps (plastic)?...and what is the safest way to dispose of the etchant/water mixture?

    Thanks,

    Horton Monroe
  • TomH
    I can’t speak for Ken but I think I’m going to try to find plastic tweezers or maybe chopsticks to fish around in the acid as needed
    And Ed
    Thanks, I will be very careful if I go that route.
    Having the Jax around doesn’t concern me as much as the etch does.
    It seems like storage is a problem. I’ll have to get a bin to hold it on it’s own in case of spillage of any kind.
  • JohnM2104JohnM2104
    I love the chopsticks idea
  • brownbr
    My method for dealing with this witches brew was as follows. I have 2 plastic disposable containers. 1 with etchant, 1 with water. I set up a work area outside because of the fumes. Thick rubber gloves and full goggles. A respirator wouldn't be out of the question. Plastic tweezers are hard to use and chopsticks might actually be better but I've never tried chopsticks. Place metal in etchant and when done place in water. After I do my batch I add a 3rd container of water and move pieces to clean water 1 at a time and brush lightly with an old toothbrush. Set aside on paper towel to dry.

    You can't be too careful with this stuff. I like the results I get with it when it is called for.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Hey Horton, old metal forceps work just fine...they are not in the solution for more than a few seconds so they are not affected just rinse them off. Once the acid is diluted its no more caustic than a bottle of coke!...but don't drink it! I have a gravel skirt at the end of my concrete driveway and just dump the diluted stuff right there.
  • Oldman
    edited June 2020
    I appreciate your comments, Karl, and I won't be so hesitant to use what I've had for several years. Thanks.

    I also want to thank TomH and browner for adding to the discussion...and engine909, you're right about that.

    Horton M.
  • TomH
    SON05100
    IMG_0965
  • TomH
    Definitely learned a lot building this little guy. A lot more to it than I would have thought and love all the subtle details that Brett included.
    On to the oil tank.
  • TomH
    I think these are better pics


    image0
    image1
    image2
  • MountaingoatMountaingoat
    Looks great.

    Rick
  • brownbr
    Very nice
  • TomH
    Thanks guys. I’m happy with the results so far. As a first attempt I feel like it’s turning out pretty well. Of course at my current pace I probably won’t live long enough to build the kits I already have on order or in my possession, but it isn’t slowing down my desire to buy more of them!
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