Scotia Supply III

Joel · February 2020

Sorry Ken,
Just catching up. Amazing concrete and love the peeling paint. I can never get it to behave. I'll have to try your technique. Really itching to see this come together. So much detail and so well thought out and then executed to perfection.

BILLR · February 2020

This has been a great build to follow! I've already added notes to my index for the concrete; and now the crackle paint. Great reference material.... as always. You set high standards for all of us; and to think that this is all done in HO.
Bill

KKarns · February 2020

Thanks Stephen. The checking as it stands after drying is very hard to see. What improves the visiblt cracks and checking is a final AI wash. This of course darkens the cracks and makes them much more visible.

Robert, appreciate that and back at ya regarding following threads as I feel the same about yours!

Thanks Steve. I agree, I was skeptical on how it would turn out in 1:87. As I mentioned I was afraid the cracks would be too large to work for HO. So not sure but the clear coat underneath combined with the product may have made the difference. More experimenting would be required to find out?

Clear Crackle Paint Undercoat: Distress Crackle Paint, Clear Rock Candy, by Ranger

Crackle Paint Top Coat: DecoArt MEDIA Crackle Paint, White

Thanks Tom, I really like the look and specifically wanted a slightly different finish than what I used on the main structure for a bit of contrast. I was careful to not make it drastically different as the roof materials I am going to use may provide further contrast. Haven't decided for sure what the roof materials will be.

Ed, I love it..."doing dirt"...I'll take it and thanks much my friend.

Well Joel, glad to hear from you buddy and no worries you check in whenever...I know you're out there! You know how I feel about you and your modeling...so the kind words here mean a great deal...thanks.

Hey Bill, glad the info. is of some use. I tend to ramble on about stuff particularly when I'm up to my armpitts in bench work!

KKarns · February 2020

Certainly appreciate the sentiments here Brett. I have said many times before, your kits bring out the modelers best work. What's my favorite SierraWest Scale Model kit?...the one I'm currently working on!...thanks for all you do and have done for the modeling community and for providing the finest fine scale modeling kits on the planet...

brownbr · February 2020

I like it. The individual flakes are out of scale, but I don't think it matters because the whole wall works.

Robert.G · February 2020

Bryan, if they would be exactly in scale, they hardly would be noticed. But that is the case with many details , even in O scale.

I agree, it works well on the wall. He did a great job on that one...

KKarns · February 2020

I agree Robert, it’s the same issue with 1:87 nail holes. When modeling at this scale a lifeless plain looking wall would not look right even though all the texture, nail holes, peeling paint, etc would be barely visible if at all In 1:87 if to true scale. I go by what looks good to my eye and how it relates to the look of the overall plan I have made. So when that wall is placed into the diorama, you won’t easily see the checked type of peeling paint and the scale issue will be a no issue...however, the texture will be apparent and combined with all the other age appropriate weathering and textures, the feel of the whole diorama will be apparent.

Robert.G · February 2020

Indeed, sometimes modeling is making compremises . But in the end when it feels right, looks right, in exact scale or not, it is right and nobody will notice or doubt the correctness of dimensions.

KKarns · February 2020

My attention has been focused on the roof of Scotia. I chewed on many ideas for the roof treatment and have finally made a decision. I felt the way the roof is designed with its extremely steep pitch, very high square hip/pyramid construction, and the wonderful array of stacks and chimneys, that is was going to be a main focal point of the build. In modeling, most roofs tend to be that way...a focal point and what is viewed and scrutinized first off. Even more critical for Scotia Supply for the various reasons I pointed out above.

Many evenings over coffee, a cold beer, and an occasional bourbon! I mulled over the roof. I decided I wanted to tone down the height and soften the pointed peak a bit and add my own character to the roof. I came up with the idea to scratch build a roof peak vent in the same square hip/pyramid construction. The design would be a cupola with a metal roof to contrast with the proposed weathered tar paper covered main roof and vents on all four sides. The pitch would be much more shallow to effectively lower the height. In order to cover the main roof in "tar paper" and effect my usual grungy weathering, I covered the entire chipboard roof card supplied in the kit with stripwood. Any tar paper that was missing in the weathering process would expose wood roof sheating underneath.

The roof card covered with stripwood. This accomplishes two main objectives for me when weathering the main roof. Firstly, when any "tar paper" is removed in the weathering process the roof boards will be visble. Secondly, I use very thin paper for my "tar paper" and the impression of the boards under the "tar paper" will be subtily visible.
Note: You can see the cut line where I removed the peak for the cupola (see below).

Roof peak carefully removed to allow the cupola to be installed.

Note how this effectively lowers the profile of the roof a bit.

The clapboard siding cut and glued together with corner trim and vent openings.

Cupola base with peeled paint and weathered vents installed.

Low profile roof made from cardboard with the seams made to apper as a elevated metal roof seam. Cardboard was painted and weathered to look like old metal roofing providing a nice contrast to the proposed "tar paper" main roof.

Underside of cuploa roof with braces installed to prevent warping.

The following is a picture with the unfinished main roof, and staged cupola and roof (not yet attached) in place to show the general apperance of the finished roof peak.

SteveCuster · February 2020

That’s great Ken. How did you get the texture and color on the metal roof?

Mountaingoat · February 2020

Great idea. Looks fantastic.

vietnamseabee · February 2020

Marvelous idea Ken....another great example of the learning opportunity of following along on all of these threads (by many of the builders). Something you did (among many things) on the Foundry that still sticks with me was your idea of showing water rot damage from the roof corner all the way down to the foundation
Well done
Terry

Dave_S · February 2020

Ken,

Nice idea to change the original roof plan a bit. I went back to page one of this build to see what the proposed roof was scheduled to look like. I totally agree that because we most often view our modeling from a "bird's eye view" it will change the focus from the steepness of the roof to other details, like the cupola and the hint of roof boards beneath the tar paper. All said it is a great looking roof at this point and a wonderful tutorial of how you did it. Thanks for all the photos. The photos really help visual learners like myself. Looking forward to seeing the tar paper installed over the roof boards and the "grungification" of it.

While living back in the Chicago area I was a founding member of a modular HO scale club, MidWest Mod-U-Trak. The other founding member, Bob Kosic, and I spent many hours trying to decide on a specific height for our modules. Over a short period of time more members joined the group and we ended up with a core group of 8 members. It was agreed upon by the group to have the top of our modules at a viewing height of 54". Some thought the viewing height was to high for kids to view the railroad easily. While we agreed, it also meant that parents would have to hold their children so they could see things. This also meant (for the most part viewing was accomplished with eyes not hands) and more like the way we view things in real life "at eye level". We even influenced Martin Lofton (owner of Sunshine Models) to raise the viewing height of the model display tables at the meet by another two feet. That was a great feature for photographers and adult viewers. Today, Mike Skibbee, a founder of Mini Mod-Trak, and current owner of the granddaddy of all the prototype modelers' shows, RPM Chicagoland (aka Naperville and/or Lisle Meet) still uses the higher viewing tables at the annual show.

Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

brownbr · February 2020

That's a great treatment for the roof. Can't wait to see the next step.

TomMich · February 2020

Great roof! Really changes the look of the structure and adds a lot of interest.

KKarns · February 2020

Thanks Steve...the "metal roof" was made from cardboard which has a slightly porous nature so when primed with enamel spray paint it causes very minute undulations in the outerlayer due to the solventsin the paint. The trough created by joining the edges of each triangular roof section was filled with strips of very small styrene strips to give the elevated seam apperance. The roof was painted with brown spray paint followed by an application of black chalk. I then ran my fingers over the surface creating the slightly shiny apperance on the high areas.

Appreciate that Rick.

Nice your remembered that Terry and thanks for the note here.

Thanks Dave and nice to hear you appreciate the how I did it portion. Too many builds just show the finished results with little in the way of information on how the modeler achived the results. Useful or not, still nice to see the methods used. Right!...looking forward to the "grungification" as well.

Thanks Bryan, next up will be to blend the main roof and cupola together. Mulling over the flashing for the cupola and have some ideas...

I thought so as well Tom and appreciate the support. You do something a bit harsh like cut the top off your roof...yikes!...you enjoy a bit of positive feed-back.

Ken

Robert.G · February 2020

I think this was a great idea of you to add the roof vent part. It surely is a detail that will draw attention . Super execution as always. The 'metal' came out great. Nice work Ken !!

admin · February 2020

can’t wait to see how it looks!

kebmo · February 2020

ditto

KKarns · February 2020

Thanks Robert, by the time I get the "tar paper" on (see below), the cupola installed flashing and weathering, I think it will come together alright...hopefully.

Gettin there Brett and Kevin...

KKarns · February 2020

The "tar paper" is on and the initial weathering is coming along. May change a few things then on to the cupola and flashing.

Initial grungification...love that word Dave!

Getting there...

Robert.G · February 2020

Tarpaper is just right. When the used paper is thin enough, the boards will show through and that is just what's needed to make it old. I don't know what you used Ken, but I use, one layer that I pre-painted , Kleenex tissue ( or similar stuff)

Then, while still wet from the thinned glue, I brush with a stiffer brush on the parts that I want to be really worn and let the weathered wood show. In that way, the edges of the paper become extreme thin and naturally aged.

Nice work Ken.

TomMich · February 2020

Great effect on the tarpaper. Really like how the wood sheathing telegraphs through. What did you use for it?

sdrees · February 2020

Roof looks great Ken.

brownbr · February 2020

I like it.

I took Robert's advise on tarpaper. It helped me a ton.

KKarns · February 2020

Thanks Robert...right you are my friend, that's how I do it as well. I use thin tissue paper though not Kleenex type as that's too fargile for how I work it, more like the kind used for gift wrapping. I spray paint one side black and then cut into strips. I coat the roof section I'm working on with white glue by using my finger so it's spread out even and then place the strip. I then start rubbing the section with my fingers to forch the paper into all the cracks, bumps, etc from the boards underneath. I can also put pressure and slightly slide the paper to make creases/wrinkles, tears, etc. here and there before the glue dries. Then weather with #11 blade, chalks, AI, etc..the key is go thin on the paper.

Thanks Tom, see my response to Robert that was intended for you as well.

Appreciate that Stephen, will look much better once the flashing and ridge caps are installed.

Thanks Bryan, Robert is a good source of "grunge" so he gets my attention as well...lol.

Ken

TomMich · February 2020

Thanks for the explanation Ken. I've tried Kleenex before and it was difficult to work. Tissue paper sounds like a good alternative.

KKarns · February 2020

Right, quite a bit more durable to work with but nice and thin once glued down.

Joel · February 2020

Beautiful work on the roof.

KKarns · February 2020

Thanks Joel. I have always wanted to try installing gutters and downspouts so am taking the opportunity and pulling the trigger on this build. The roof is done and the gutters are installed. Laying out and assembling the downspouts. Tedious work in 1:87. The downspouts won't be put up until the roof is glued down to the second story walls, that won't get done until I get holes drilled and a set of LEDs placed in the attached workshop, and that won't get done until the lights get here...ordered today...Ken

Howdy, Stranger!

Categories

Scotia Supply III

Comments