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Comments
Now let's see them on top of the stone wall, gonna be fantastic!
Thanks much Robert.
Hey Joel, nice hearing from you and appreciate that.
Thanks Tom, and that heavy weathering will continue around the corner on the adjacent wall...
I think the match is going to be good...and thanks for all your input Brett greatly appreciated as you know.
Dirty painted fingers for effect only...
Where's the keyhole for the door?
Thanks Ed.
Appreciate that Robert. Had fun building it.
Its there Bryan...can't you see it?:)
I know Kevin I'm slow...Should be putting the walls up soon.
Ken
I decided to put in a door and a flight of stairs coming down to the concrete loading dock on the rear of Scotia. I wanted the door to open in and have it slightly open to add interest. I made a false floor and will be adding the door trim, a light, and possibly a small roof overhang...not sure yet.
How did you go about getting the rotted wood effect?
TomK
Appreciate the positive thoughts here Rick. I'm always thinking through the build and looking at ideas that I like to model, are new techniques for me to learn and try out, and those that enhance the great designs already inherent to the kit. Matter of fact, I just finished up a technique I developed for detailing foam board to look like well aged and deteriorating concrete. This came about as I prepare my base for my Scotia build here. This will be featured later on.
Tom, I did a tutorial of sorts on detailing stripwood here on the forum, but don't recall if I covered what I do with clapboard or scribed siding. To get the rotten wood effect I start by taking my fresh clapboard wall and use my wire brush to give it some grain. I only go in one direction with by wire brush as I have found this goes a long way in avoiding the "fuzzies". I set the brush down and drag it one direction and repeat as needed to get the grain I want. I then do my nail holes if any. I don't do any further detailing until the the wood is colored and essentially finished just like in the real world. Except the nail holes. I do two different types of nail holes depending on where they are. If they are on the edges of the walls or around door/window openings, I use what I call split wood nail holes. Many times when you see a nail driven into the ends of siding over time it splits the wood out to the edge. To recreate this, rather than just put a single dimpled round nail hole, I push my tool (thin pointed awl) all the way through the wood and then drag it out to and through the edge of the siding creating a split. So you get the look of an initial nail hole then a split. Of course I don't do everyone like that just here and there and more towards the bottom where the wood would be more deteriorated.
The nail holes are the only detail I do other than the graining before the final coloring/finish. That way they are filled with paint or whatever is used for final finish before any weathering occurs just like the real world. It also serves to tone down the nail holes and make them subtile and hardly visible...but there. They should be faint enough that if you get just the right angle on the wall you can see um...sort of...that's what I like.
To get more rotten look, I just pick and remove small amounts of wood at the edges and areas of interest with my #11 blade. Then the areas I want to look more deteriorated I go at it with browns and black chalks which give the apperance of less stable and rotting wood. This discoloration has a dramatic and instant effect...but should be used sparingly and thought out carefully as to where it would normally be. To have the bottom corner of one wall well wethered and rotting and the same corner on the adjacent wall not treated would look out of place and unnatural (what I call "wrap around effect" and is a cool technigue).
Long winded response but hope this helps. Thanks for the inquiry and I did not re-read this whole thing so unless spell check caught it...???
Ken
i'll have to try building something just using the clapboard siding, instead of siding over it. it would have been a time saver on my current project.
Terry
Jerry
It did work out well with the match, which I was a bit concerned with going into it. I actually colored the stone base before attempting to get the wall color and finish the way I had invisioned. I knew a stark white wouldn't cut it and not my style to do much of anything stark!...Thanks for your encouragement as I moved forward.
That's right Rick, I really only put in those modifications that I feel I can effectively use to enhance the structure and at the same time build the things I like. I build on the kits strengths which is what drew me to SierraWest scale Models structure kits in the first place. With a SierraWest kit, I have never said to myself "now that's not done very well I can fix that"...but rather..."now that's a cool feature, I think I'll try and Dr. Grunge that up a bit"!...and thus it goes...
Thanks Terry, grungy is always a great compliment.
As I mentioned to Brett here, I was nervous about getting the two so very different materials to work with each other...thanks for the perusal and kind words Jerry.
Ed, we all do!...hehe. Just messin with you Jerry. Thanks much Ed.
Kevin, thanks for always being there for support and encouragement. We all have our style and our "thing"...I would venture to say that many modelers, if they had to model as pathetically slow as I do, would end up walking out into traffic! I do appreciate the sentiment but stop it!:)
Appreciate that Robert. Coming from you it means a great deal...
(ie..one who gets the grunge!)
Hey Steve, you are lurking out there my friend. Thanks much and what are you working on these days? Great web-site by the way. Have to get in there a bit more as I just discovered it a few weeks ago.
Tom, I am really glad I decided to go with a different color scheme to see if I could make it work. It just further illustrates the versatility of Brett's kits. Gives it a whole different feel I think...not better not worse, just a freash perspective...only a 24 year old kit!
Ken