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Comments
Braced the walls prior to coloring and detailing. Wire brished the clapboard siding to create the textured wood grain. I then added nail holes. I like nail holes despite them being out of scale for 1:87 as long as they are subtile. I do them prior to any coloring or staining so the holes fill with either and get toned down as they naturally would be. I also detailed the siding with various cracks, splits, added some butted board ends sparingly, lifted a few pieces, again sparingly. I then stained the walls with fairly strong AI. Once dry I then painted the walls with SW Bone which is a warm white using the resist method with mineral spirits to create the peeled paint. I then finished it up with weathering with chalks.
The completed front wall with the side trim also attached.
The west wall, note the rotted missing boards on the lower left. This is a technique I developed on my BlueSky build and described in detail there. The main issue that must be dealt with in creating this detail is the tickness of the scribed siding. If you simply cut a section out and glue the studs to the inside the thickness will be obvious and not realistic. I thin down the back side of the siding until its only as thin as a piece of the siding would have been. Then I build my studs and cover the inside with stripwood.
The rear wall of Scotia. Of note here about nail hole spacing. Studs would most often be placed on 24" centers. If you place nail holes on a model at 24" the wall would appear full of nail holes! So I place my nail holes per Bretts templates as they will give the best look without overdoing it. However, when I have a stud showing I make sure I run a row of nail holes right on the stud line...see above.
East wall ready to go...more later...Ken
Thanks Kevin.
It really does Rick. I have said it before and its worth repeating. Any single semingly insignificant detail by itself may not have a great impact. However, when you start combining those small details together they have a significant overall impact on the build...in my opinion.
Appreciate that Robert.
I would like to use Bryan to set an example here...sorry to single you out my friend!
It hit me that the last few exchanges of comments between Bryan and I is exactly what I love about this forum and really what a modeling forum is all about. I'll take you through my thoughts....
I posted a picture of the base of Scotia where I cut out the cast resin freight door, archway, and a couple windows. Above the freight doors I used strip wood to match the archway in its original design that was cast in place with resin (see above). I stained and weathered the wood and felt pretty good about the look. Bryan made a comment that he felt some peeling paint on that arched section would look good and function to highlight the structure.
I posted that I was taking his idea "under advisement"...did I just move on and dismiss the idea?...hell no...I chewed on the concept, and even called Brett to get his take and he agreed with Bryan. So, with that in mind I posted that Bryans' comment was now under the planning stages (see above). Well, it has now moved once again to the implementation stage. If not for this forum and folks willing to share ideas and not be offended or dismissive of suggestions, this small detail would not have been realized. I didn't say I liked it just because of a suggestion but because I think it is the right look.
So thanks much Bryan and Brett, appreciate the input.
Archway with subtile peeling and old white paint. Toned down with chalks. Once the light fixture is installed I think it will prove the right call here. What tone of white did I use?...FolkArt craft paint Ivory White (see displayed color on thumb above!)
This is a styrene one piece gooseneck. I started by dishing out the flat bottom of the reflector to a concave shape with a drill bit and then with sandpaper.
I took a styrene rod and sanded the end rounded and then drilled a hole in the center to allow the lamp support arm to pass through. This would form the beasel. I then cut a thin slice off the rod tip that was rounded with a razor blade.
Primed the entire casting with a brown spray paint and let cure. I then painted the support arm and reflector with SW Bone (off white) and the shade with Brilliant Green. These areas were weathered to reflect rust and peeling and chipped paint. I did the same with the beasel. To simulate a light bulb, I mixed some 2-part Epoxy and over several appIications created the clear bulb. I then slid the beasel over the arm and then glued the arm into the hole in the wall and then slid the beasel down and firmly glued to the wall.
Finished gooseneck lamp.
Completed installation.
Thanks Kevin...one of those take a deep breath and do it...
Hey Rick, appreciate that.
Glad your checking in Steve. I think about and review your build of Scotia all the time.
The lamp is killer! Love the rusted peeling paint.
I have ribbed him a couple times about things...remember the HO scale weld seams. What a hoot that was.
Tom, gee wiz, never hesitate to jump in with any suggestion or comments regarding anything I'm doing, I love it! That's what this forum is all about. If I wasn't soliciting for suggestions, comments, improvements, etc...I'd just post the finished build and say here it is..done...with that said...
Tom, thanks for your perusal and appreciate the thumbs up on the old peeling paint above the door, Bryan nailed that for sure. Going into this project I knew I wanted the stone work to look like old cut sandstone blocks. I also knew that I wanted a darker effect and those sandstone blocks tend to age very dark over time. I do think they are a bit dark and monochrome but all the pics so far have been indoors due to crappy weather outside. The last picture is more what they really look like. I can go lighter by removing the darker areas with alcohol and a rag...like I mentioned earlier, almost a reverse dry brushing. I don't dry brush much and thus not that confident in my skill level doing it. I know it can be used to good effect. Let me get the walls up and add some natural sunlight shots and see what you think.
Oh and Bryan...may your weld seams never hold paint and always look way too shiny!! hehe...
Ken
Jerry
Perfectly said regarding the "method to the madness" as they say. Thanks much for your thoughts here Brett. Things are coming together better than I expected seeing as how I went off the reservation a bit on this build.
Thanks Tom and truely appreciate your input and following along here. Make sure you let me know if you think the coloration of the stone works better once the walls are up and porch on...