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Comments
Detailing resin casting to define individual bricks along top row.
Wasn't too bad Bryan until I got to the dremel work. and made sure I wore a particulate respirator so I didn't inhale the resin dust! I always seem to start off really slow though, at least it seems to me that way. I have the base colored and working on finishing up the bricks and will post again soon...Ken
More detailing to do on the base but I'm going to wait until it's attached to the foundation. Other walls next time...Ken
Well...maybe not so detailed!...bracing is work...isn't it?
Thanks Brett. I had sent a picture of a cut sandstone block wall to Brett to get his take on my idea of doing the same with Scotia. Brett gave a thumbs up of support which means a great deal and so I went "all in" as they say!
OK Robert...seems I'm on the right track.
Well hey Steve!...I was hoping you'd get in here on this. My build will be quite different than all others I have seen, starting with the stone base. Glad you like the look.
For those of you who may not have seen it, our own Steve Custer did a fabulous build of Scotia not long ago. His build set the bar for this kit. I have not seen a Scotia build of the quality that Steve produced and chronicled here on the SWSM Forum save for the Pilot Model done by Brett. Make sure you check it out under "HO Builds".
This is the rear of the structure base. The cast resin boarded up window has a nice detail of corrugated at the upper right. Cool detail but hard to see so I added another piece going the opposite direction below it. I think once I did that, the upper one jumps out more. I'm going to have a few more details back here once planted on the foundation.
Here is the east side of the base. The cast resin boarded up window was opened, as described earlier, to allow for a recessed metal framed window. The bricked over doorway was colored above and below with aged concrete and weathered with chalks. The side pillars were colored as wood.
Above the door at the center of the concrete arch I added a detail to look like a hanging lamp once resided there. I secured a very small, thin walled metal pipe from my stock, weathered it rusty and placed two very small pieces of wire inside and glued on the back side. I then drilled a hole into the resin casting and then picked and rounded the edge of the hole with my #11 blade. I then took a bigger pipe and placed it over the smaller hole and rocked it back and forth to make round indentations around the small hole to look like a larger fixture was there. I then carefully rusted with Winsor Newton burnt umber and raw umber Gouache with a small detail brush. I then inserted the pipe with the wires sticking out a bit and glued in place. I will go over my brick coloring technique on the next wall.
Back to the north wall. The boarded up cast resin window was opened as was the cast double freight doors. I added the supports and header in the door opening with scale
6' x 6' stripwood. I then added the wood planking above with scale 2' x 6' boards as per the design of the original resin casting. I will then be adding simulated steel doors and a recessed metal window.
Brett describes in the Scotia Manual regarding brick work as follows "there are as many ways to color brick and add mortar as there are modelers" This is so true and my method here is likely the least used! First off, I tend to like my brick a bit on the darker and muted color palate rather than the bright classic brick red/orange spectrum. I used just three colors on my brick; Boxcar Red, Ruddy Brown, and Roof Brown. The next step here is not for the faint of heart! I color my entire brick wall with aged concrete. Once cured I then paint each brick radomly with the three colors. I use no mortar and use the aged concrete in the joints to look like the mortar joints. Why do I not use mortar? The joints in resin 1:87 brick work is quite shallow and filling that joint with mortar would decrease the definition of the brick work...my opinion!
here is the west wall with the the brick work showing the nicely contrasting bricks and joints. After the bricks are painted the entire wall is weathered with chalks to tone down the colors. The picture shows the bricks very monotone, they are more varied looking in person.
Picture of the top row where I scribed in the individual brick joints described earlier. This also serves to show the variation in colors used. Next will be the completed base with windows and doors installed...Ken
I guess I need to address Jerry's comments...despite my better judgement! If it weren't for the hat Jerry, the picture would be distracting from the reflection and resulting glare...hell to get old my friend!....
Your right and I'm sure Ed could verify that for us!!!!
Jerry
Best compliment ever Robert, to call me grungy!
Appreciate that Bryan.
Kevin/Robert, I think the stone arch is the main culprit in giving it that medieval look. And I will be installing two freight doors not a draw bridge!
It's starting to comer together both in my mind and on the bench, thanks Rick.
I like the draw bridge idea with two dragons on each side breathing fire...
Tom
Blue would look nice also.