Don't worry too much about a super smooth transition on the curve section...or the straight section either. There is something pleasing about looking at the rail at ground level and seeing some minor fluxuations. This adds to the backwoods look.
I wanted to thank everyone who's given me advice on the hand laying of the track. Here is a photo of everything roughed in. At this point if i need to fix or change anything that's an option.
With that being said, i would like any input anyone has to offer. Please feel free to mention anything you think i should take note of prior to moving forward further.
i should mention that i did order some track weathering solution and plan on touching up the area's that were nicked by the saw (i used a jewlers saw to cut the track as it gave a clean edge). i don't know if any of those nicks can been seen in this photo or not.
Also, i cut the sections to approximately 4.25" to simulate 15' track. That is why it is not a smooth bend. There are approximately 9 sections that make up the main line portion.
You can simplify a little by cutting the rail with the jewelers saw only 1/2 way through. No one will see the base isn't cut, but they will see the rail head. If you add railbars at the joints, it will further hide the solid base. If building a layout, this keeps the electrical connected and for you helps with smoother curves. The old standard for rail length was 39' as that fits on a 40' flat car. I'm not sure if logging roads used shorter.
Otherwise, it is looking good. Currently it looks like the turnout was removed thus the stub track left behind. If you want to do a turnout, the stock (outer) rail will go all the way through on the lower track. There are many tutorials on hand laying. My method was always to lay the two outside stock rails then using the track gauge as I brought in the two converging rails to form the frog. Lastly then the point/wing rails. In your case, the exact geometry of the turnout is not important since it will not be a operating in a layout.
Rick, i did what you recommended- i pulled that rail and used 3ft sections and then just cut the top of the rails. Fish plates will hide the un-cut portion.
I don't really think i want to do a turnout. Just something to add character.
Railroads would pull up turnouts to unused tracks for reliability, but would leave the rail of the unused track because of cost of removal so what you have is prototypical. The unused track is perfect for showing absolutely no use or maintenance. Rust the top of those rails while the operational track would be shiny. Weeds between rails, etc.
These photos were taken since the last update, so they are not all at the same point in the build. I did have one technical issue.. the LED for the light inside the cabin has gone out. i haven't spent any time trouble shooting yet. With the overhead light in the cabin not working, the fireplace is much more visible. So, it's kind of one of those unintended benefits?
Also, I wound up pulling the track and doing what Rick mentioned, using one long piece and cutting the top of the rail for the rail joint (i ised a jewelers saw).
Today i started working on the area around the cabin.
The random Prairie dog holes are where i "drilled" out for the base of the trees. So, each one of those will have a tree. The barren circle next to the chopped wood is for the "base" to chop the wood on... I'll blend that in once i get a piece of wood cut for that area.
The last photo was to test out to see how the ground layer is coming along.
This is looking really good. Very convincing. Track looks like it belongs in the woods. The ground cover looks great. Love to see the rest of your progress.
I've made a bi of progress. on the wood chopping area. still need to glue down the rest of the "ready to be chopped" wood and get some logs ready for the area as well. Slowly but surely.
I re-did the oil cans in this area as well from the previous photos... i kind of decided i liked the super rusty look. But, my wife (Veronica) said there should be some with color as well. So, i added a few less rusty ones into the mix.
I've done a bit of rework on the stumps. i found this reference photo online of the saw dust and tried to emulate that. i'll be redoing the felled logs as well.
i hope this doesn't look weird. But, this also accentuates the difference in the real wood and the molded stump.. I'll have to figure out if i'm going to redo that stump as well. it would be kind of weird for all of the stumps to be real wood except for one.
As some are following both this thread as well as the forum Dolbeer thread. There are 2 photos below that are overlaps. However, the majority of the work shed photos here are as it pertains to the overall build. Thus, those are in this thread and not the other thread.
I hope you enjoy, getting closer to finished. But, not quite there yet, just a few more areas to work on....
Comments
Don't worry too much about a super smooth transition on the curve section...or the straight section either. There is something pleasing about looking at the rail at ground level and seeing some minor fluxuations. This adds to the backwoods look.
With that being said, i would like any input anyone has to offer. Please feel free to mention anything you think i should take note of prior to moving forward further.
i should mention that i did order some track weathering solution and plan on touching up the area's that were nicked by the saw (i used a jewlers saw to cut the track as it gave a clean edge). i don't know if any of those nicks can been seen in this photo or not.
Also, i cut the sections to approximately 4.25" to simulate 15' track. That is why it is not a smooth bend. There are approximately 9 sections that make up the main line portion.
Otherwise, it is looking good. Currently it looks like the turnout was removed thus the stub track left behind. If you want to do a turnout, the stock (outer) rail will go all the way through on the lower track. There are many tutorials on hand laying. My method was always to lay the two outside stock rails then using the track gauge as I brought in the two converging rails to form the frog. Lastly then the point/wing rails. In your case, the exact geometry of the turnout is not important since it will not be a operating in a layout.
Rick
I don't really think i want to do a turnout. Just something to add character.
Rick
I might suggest taking the rail on the abandoned spur all the way to the edge like you did the main rail at the bottom left in the pic.
Also, I wound up pulling the track and doing what Rick mentioned, using one long piece and cutting the top of the rail for the rail joint (i ised a jewelers saw).
Today i started working on the area around the cabin.
The random Prairie dog holes are where i "drilled" out for the base of the trees. So, each one of those will have a tree. The barren circle next to the chopped wood is for the "base" to chop the wood on... I'll blend that in once i get a piece of wood cut for that area.
The last photo was to test out to see how the ground layer is coming along.
The track looks like it goes on beyond the diorama now instead of stopping at the edge.
Rick
A mighty fine job there young man.
I re-did the oil cans in this area as well from the previous photos... i kind of decided i liked the super rusty look. But, my wife (Veronica) said there should be some with color as well. So, i added a few less rusty ones into the mix.
i hope this doesn't look weird. But, this also accentuates the difference in the real wood and the molded stump.. I'll have to figure out if i'm going to redo that stump as well. it would be kind of weird for all of the stumps to be real wood except for one.
Just going to highjack your thread for second.the same idea in HO
Hope that you do not mind. ...........Carl................
Dirt coming soon!
I hope you enjoy, getting closer to finished. But, not quite there yet, just a few more areas to work on....