Very good question Stephen. If we get a strip of LED lights, there is a chip in there somewhere that routes power so the lights come on but the power doesn't burn them out. This is that chip. On one side you can solder the lights directly and there is a chip that does this for you. You need a minimum of 12V because the chip itself eats up 5V. The only reason I know this is conversations I've had with Tim at nGineering.
In this photo you see red and green magnet wires. This is what I use to wire the LED's. Each light has a separate set of pads. The lights are wired in parallel, and you can add many more lights if you wire in series...once again, Tim. I chose to use 4 lights to make it easy on my brain to comprehend electricity. The small blocks that appear to read "1500" are 150 ohm resisters. There is one for each LED. The red and black wires are the power. I used 4-AA batteries to give me 6V and I incorporated the smallest SPDT slide switch I could find.
I believe that installing lights is almost mandatory if you don't want to loose all the nice details in the darkness. It gives the diorama also an extra dimension. Great work Bryan !
Thanks again to everyone who commented. This is an awesome kit to work with. I've debated whether to order parts 1 & 2 again for when part 3 comes out.
I'm calling this bad boy done. Here's a couple of night shots. Overall front and rear. And one shot in each bay...there is only 1 LED per bay. I chose not to light the outside front, but did the outside back. Didn't want a light-in-your-eye effect for viewing the front.
Also, an overall view installed in its case and a closeup of the on/off switch with a barrel for size comparison.
These days lights are a must. I am in the process of installing lights in my sawmill. I thought about it when I built it, procrastinated and did not do it at the time. I want to kick myself in the butt.
Anyway Bryan, the lighting effects are just great.
Bryan the lighting really makes the interior pop when lit up. Shows your exceptional detail work nicely. Your explanation of how you wired the diorama must make sense to some, but I am clueless as to how it works. Not that your explanation isn't good it's just I don't understand the electronic aspect of the hobby. I wish there were an easy way to just hook up a wire to a light and then an electric source. I'd use it all the tine then.
Truth be known the electrical aspect of the hobby is partly why I never built a layout. I just settled on building structures and dioramas, which I thoroughly enjoy.
Stephen, its always hard to install after the build. I did that on Blue Sky after it was installed on my layout...a tough task.
Tom, I feel the same way about lighting. I really don't understand how it all works but I know I want to light up my kits. Tim at nGineering is as helpful as Brett. If you have a question just ask him. He usually tells me how to calculate volts and ohms and amps. I politely acknowledge him and then just ask "so how do I wire this up to do what I want?"
Thanks Ken, Robert, Joel and Kevin.
Joel, I'm not sure what's next yet. I have a couple of projects I've been wanting to do for years but I'm eagerly anticipating the foundry. We'll see after I get the bench cleaned off again.
Comments
In this photo you see red and green magnet wires. This is what I use to wire the LED's. Each light has a separate set of pads. The lights are wired in parallel, and you can add many more lights if you wire in series...once again, Tim. I chose to use 4 lights to make it easy on my brain to comprehend electricity. The small blocks that appear to read "1500" are 150 ohm resisters. There is one for each LED. The red and black wires are the power. I used 4-AA batteries to give me 6V and I incorporated the smallest SPDT slide switch I could find.
I'm calling this bad boy done. Here's a couple of night shots. Overall front and rear. And one shot in each bay...there is only 1 LED per bay. I chose not to light the outside front, but did the outside back. Didn't want a light-in-your-eye effect for viewing the front.
Also, an overall view installed in its case and a closeup of the on/off switch with a barrel for size comparison.
Anyway Bryan, the lighting effects are just great.
Truth be known the electrical aspect of the hobby is partly why I never built a layout. I just settled on building structures and dioramas, which I thoroughly enjoy.
Tom, I feel the same way about lighting. I really don't understand how it all works but I know I want to light up my kits. Tim at nGineering is as helpful as Brett. If you have a question just ask him. He usually tells me how to calculate volts and ohms and amps. I politely acknowledge him and then just ask "so how do I wire this up to do what I want?"
Thanks Ken, Robert, Joel and Kevin.
Joel, I'm not sure what's next yet. I have a couple of projects I've been wanting to do for years but I'm eagerly anticipating the foundry. We'll see after I get the bench cleaned off again.
Wowzer!!!! Those night shots definitely steal the show.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ