Plenty to study and pour over here Bryan. Looks like another home run to me. Your originality never ceases to amaze me. I especially like the rust streak effect you have running down the cabinet door. Very subtle but effective. The numbers below the bins are a great detail. One of those things you slap yourself in the head and say, "Why didn't I think of that!"
Happy Thanksgiving all. While I was waiting on everyone else in the house to get up I started working on these drums. I hope to get 2 different realistic rust effects going here.
Start by priming and painting drums. Colors are a personal choice. I used SWSM for the acrylics on these drums. The covered drum will have rust streaks. The open drum will be more covered/caked with rust.
The base colors are very bright. Paint with enamel "Engine Grime" to tone it down. Let dry for 15 or so minutes then wipe off with QTip. I rolled the QTip around the barrel horizontally to get most of the paint off, then started wiping straight down vertically to start getting the streaking effect I'll be looking for.
Let this dry completely...overnight. Start with the rust. I sponged on some light rust first. This is only to add some depth to the rust. Dip sponge in paint then get most of paint off by blotting paper towel. Dap onto the barrel lightly. The next coat was with "Rust Texture". I like the color and texture of this product. Same sponge technique. Put a couple of horizontal scratches in.
Let dry...doesn't take long. On barrel on left I used "Streaking Rust" and barrel on right I used "Track Wash". For the streaks, paint on as seen in pic here. For wash, brush on...I thinned some with spirits. Let streaks dry for about 15 min. Take a slightly larger brush than used to apply streaks, dip in spirits then wipe off on paper towel. Brush the streak straight down until you get the look that you like. Clean brush as needed.
Sometimes you take off too much. Notice the horizontal scratch in the last pic. I wanted streaks coming off of this but I took too much off. Let dry and repeat.
That's all for now as I get my eating pants ready for the day.
They are all dry now and I'm happy with the way they turned out. I capped the drums off with a coat of dust. I swirl around the spirits that I clean my brushes with and put some on top. It dries in a random dust pattern.
As always thanks for the tutorial. Plenty to absorb and try to effectively execute outlined here. Once again, our modeling bar has been raised by one of our fantastic SierraWest crew with the fantastic execution of some fine weathering detail methods.
Nearly all of the castings are finished and the walls have come together. I decided to build this as a standalone diorama as opposed to incorporating into the layout. So I went ahead and ordered an acrylic cover like for O'Neills.
Having trouble loading photos right now. Will try again later.
Dang, now i want to get one of these kits as well... it's very informative learning from you guys that know what your doing. Thanks for sharing your technique!
I needed to skip forward a few steps and get the lights installed before planting the structure. The wires are magnet wire painted brown and run along the wall support and top of the wall...good luck finding them. There will be 4 total. Once all are installed I'll run the wires down the wall behind a cabinet where they can go through the base. Any exposed wire can be covered by a sign hanging on the wall.
There's lots of light options out there but I've been a big fan of the ones I've gotten from nGenineering. I use the 2x3mm fluorescent LEDs and wire them with magnet wire. It's a pain with a bit of a learning curve, but after you do a few they get easier. This wire passes through the .025 tubing which is what the gooseneck is made out of...the trick here is to twist the wire.
You know what they say about opinions...everybody has one. So let's hear yours.
I've been trying different placements before I glue the structure in place. I am presenting 5 placement options here and I would like to know your opinion on the placement. Don't judge the photos...its nasty and raining out so these are just quick snaps.
The wood base you see here will be the final base and what holds the acrylic case in place. The foam base will be trimmed in wood and colored to match.
Pic 1: Structure perpendicular to viewer up front with a vehicle peeking through the door. It won't be this vehicle as I am building a wrecker for this. Would your opinion change on this if there was something in the bay being worked on? A tractor for example.
Pic 2: Structure perpendicular to viewer at back with vehicle up front.
Pic 3: Structure angled with left side closer to viewer. This angle is pleasing when looking at the big castings on the walls. Again, would your opinion change if there was something being worked on in the bay?
Pic 4: Same orientation on structure. Vehicle up front.
Pic 5: Structure angled with right side closer to viewer. I like the peek-a-boo aspect of the vehicle in the back on this one.
Comments
I especially like the rust streak effect you have running down the cabinet door. Very subtle but effective. The numbers below the bins are a great detail. One of those things you slap yourself in the head and say, "Why didn't I think of that!"
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
I'll do a step by step on the rust technique. I have the oil drums ready to start.
Start by priming and painting drums. Colors are a personal choice. I used SWSM for the acrylics on these drums. The covered drum will have rust streaks. The open drum will be more covered/caked with rust.
The base colors are very bright. Paint with enamel "Engine Grime" to tone it down. Let dry for 15 or so minutes then wipe off with QTip. I rolled the QTip around the barrel horizontally to get most of the paint off, then started wiping straight down vertically to start getting the streaking effect I'll be looking for.
Let this dry completely...overnight. Start with the rust. I sponged on some light rust first. This is only to add some depth to the rust. Dip sponge in paint then get most of paint off by blotting paper towel. Dap onto the barrel lightly. The next coat was with "Rust Texture". I like the color and texture of this product. Same sponge technique. Put a couple of horizontal scratches in.
Let dry...doesn't take long. On barrel on left I used "Streaking Rust" and barrel on right I used "Track Wash". For the streaks, paint on as seen in pic here. For wash, brush on...I thinned some with spirits. Let streaks dry for about 15 min. Take a slightly larger brush than used to apply streaks, dip in spirits then wipe off on paper towel. Brush the streak straight down until you get the look that you like. Clean brush as needed.
Sometimes you take off too much. Notice the horizontal scratch in the last pic. I wanted streaks coming off of this but I took too much off. Let dry and repeat.
That's all for now as I get my eating pants ready for the day.
They are all dry now and I'm happy with the way they turned out. I capped the drums off with a coat of dust. I swirl around the spirits that I clean my brushes with and put some on top. It dries in a random dust pattern.
As always thanks for the tutorial. Plenty to absorb and try to effectively execute outlined here. Once again, our modeling bar has been raised by one of our fantastic SierraWest crew with the fantastic execution of some fine weathering detail methods.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Mike S.
Having trouble loading photos right now. Will try again later.
Pueraria montana var. carllaskeyi
Geezerbill
I needed to skip forward a few steps and get the lights installed before planting the structure. The wires are magnet wire painted brown and run along the wall support and top of the wall...good luck finding them. There will be 4 total. Once all are installed I'll run the wires down the wall behind a cabinet where they can go through the base. Any exposed wire can be covered by a sign hanging on the wall.
There's lots of light options out there but I've been a big fan of the ones I've gotten from nGenineering. I use the 2x3mm fluorescent LEDs and wire them with magnet wire. It's a pain with a bit of a learning curve, but after you do a few they get easier. This wire passes through the .025 tubing which is what the gooseneck is made out of...the trick here is to twist the wire.
Geezerbill
I've been trying different placements before I glue the structure in place. I am presenting 5 placement options here and I would like to know your opinion on the placement. Don't judge the photos...its nasty and raining out so these are just quick snaps.
The wood base you see here will be the final base and what holds the acrylic case in place. The foam base will be trimmed in wood and colored to match.
Pic 1: Structure perpendicular to viewer up front with a vehicle peeking through the door. It won't be this vehicle as I am building a wrecker for this. Would your opinion change on this if there was something in the bay being worked on? A tractor for example.
Pic 2: Structure perpendicular to viewer at back with vehicle up front.
Pic 3: Structure angled with left side closer to viewer. This angle is pleasing when looking at the big castings on the walls. Again, would your opinion change if there was something being worked on in the bay?
Pic 4: Same orientation on structure. Vehicle up front.
Pic 5: Structure angled with right side closer to viewer. I like the peek-a-boo aspect of the vehicle in the back on this one.
So let the voting begin. Which would you choose?