Good eye. Yes, I attached a link to Robert's previous photos so our members wouldn't have to page back to find the original ones. I look at it as being a courtesy to readers to post links to previous photos in the build to make reference work easier.
Been working for hours and hours on preparing boards for the decking. ( later photos) So, I am at the point of glueing the head frames. Did that and want to show you guys what I did.
Working with wood for about my whole life, I know it is nearly impossible to glue a piece of end grain wood just with glue and no further ways of reinforcement. I mean, a dowel, a tenon.
(It would break of with the slightest bump. Especially these head frames that will carry heavy pulleys.)
So what I did with the head frames was adding just that. And by means of nails that were inserted , after drilling the proper hole, and cut of at the right length.
Of course, these holes need to be at right angles and not as an extension of the beams .The nails have to go straight down in the floor.
To know where to drill the holes in the floor, I put some masking tape and either marked the points with a fine sharpie or I pushed the head frame into it. ( for the one in the center) Then I knew exactly where to drill these holes.
Then I epoxied them , making sure the are at 90° at both sides. A square helps, but also the old school eyeball trick. ( I guess I am old school) Compare the top of a head frame with an existing straight line. And compare both with each other. Have to be paralel .
To even reinforce them some more, I piled some ground cover around the bases of the head frames. That would not only hold them better, but they look as they are really imbedded in the ground. After wetting , diluted glue all over and when dry, steady as a rock.
If there is one thing I hate in modeling, is that buildings, poles etc. are put ON top instead of IN the ground. Gives terrible lines as they were floating...
Anyways, this is where I am for now. Soon more on the decking.
btw, this build is getting more exiting with each board I lay down and one gets the irresistible urge to keep on going..... but glue needs to dry..
And here the pics. ( more functional than artistic this time...)
Excellent progress Robert! My sawmill pilot model has logged well over 2000 miles traveling to various shows without pins and nothing has "popped" loose. Certainly can't hurt adding pins but they are not necessary as long as enough epoxy is used to secure the legs to the base.
Yes you are right, and more, the one in the center is held by the floor aswel. But I wanted to be sure. The shaft will hold the two together also. And in the end, no manipulation will take place.
I was referring to the 70ties Soul Disco 'The Three Degrees...' But the Boss is fine by me aswel... You are a real groupie Ed. I count only 3 PF concerts.
The decking almost finished. I got help from my wife to prepare the boards. When she saw me sitting for hours, drilling tiny holes for the knots, she felt sorry I suppose and offered me to help. ( at first she thought it was quiet crazy to do this. Who would notice these... I do !!! )
The ways of the Lord are strange, but those of women even stranger...
Whilst decking the subfloor, I started working on the walls. There is much that needs to dry every time, so I found myself working on several parts . The urge of keep on going I guess ...
So here a few pics of the first wall construction. As I wanted to go a bit further then the manual, I assembled the header in a way that is often found when a little more work is allowed in the construction. It is allowed here in mine......
( I noticed while taking the pics, the little burr on the post in the second pic .Will remove that. It is only in enlarged photos that one sees the imperfections..)
Great eye for detail. Once again a detail that sets your modeling above many others, the addition of a "trait de juniper" (or "bolt of lightning joint"). I think this may be the first time I have seen somebody model a scarf joint in a scale model. Thanks for showing us that adding this sort of detail is not just possible but a detail extraordinaire. You must have some experience in timber framing yourself to attempt to replicate this sort of joint in your modeling.
Eric, Scarf joint is sometimes also spelled "scarph joint". But it seems like scarf is more commonly used.
Carl, Thanks for adding that great photo of a scarf joint in a timber frame. I am a regular viewer of the TV program "Barnwood Builders" on HG TV and host Mark Bowe would be oohing and ahhing over that joint and the patina of the timbers. Not just the joint but also the wood pegs and wedges that hold everything together including the 45 degree braces that stabilize the post and beam connections.
What type of timber was used in your farmhouse construction? Very interesting grain and color? In the USA the preferred species would have included oak and poplar in the East and Midwest and Douglas Fir in the West..
Comments
Good eye. Yes, I attached a link to Robert's previous photos so our members wouldn't have to page back to find the original ones. I look at it as being a courtesy to readers to post links to previous photos in the build to make reference work easier.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Working with wood for about my whole life, I know it is nearly impossible to glue a piece of end grain wood just with glue and no further ways of reinforcement. I mean, a dowel, a tenon.
(It would break of with the slightest bump. Especially these head frames that will carry heavy pulleys.)
So what I did with the head frames was adding just that. And by means of nails that were inserted , after drilling the proper hole, and cut of at the right length.
Of course, these holes need to be at right angles and not as an extension of the beams .The nails have to go straight down in the floor.
To know where to drill the holes in the floor, I put some masking tape and either marked the points with a fine sharpie or I pushed the head frame into it. ( for the one in the center) Then I knew exactly where to drill these holes.
Then I epoxied them , making sure the are at 90° at both sides. A square helps, but also the old school eyeball trick. ( I guess I am old school) Compare the top of a head frame with an existing straight line. And compare both with each other. Have to be paralel .
To even reinforce them some more, I piled some ground cover around the bases of the head frames. That would not only hold them better, but they look as they are really imbedded in the ground. After wetting , diluted glue all over and when dry, steady as a rock.
If there is one thing I hate in modeling, is that buildings, poles etc. are put ON top instead of IN the ground. Gives terrible lines as they were floating...
Anyways, this is where I am for now. Soon more on the decking.
btw, this build is getting more exiting with each board I lay down and one gets the irresistible urge to keep on going..... but glue needs to dry..
And here the pics. ( more functional than artistic this time...)
See you soon...
You can look but please don't touch....
Who wrote that Ed....? ..
The decking almost finished. I got help from my wife to prepare the boards. When she saw me sitting for hours, drilling tiny holes for the knots, she felt sorry I suppose and offered me to help. ( at first she thought it was quiet crazy to do this. Who would notice these... I do !!! )
The ways of the Lord are strange, but those of women even stranger...
So here a few pics of the first wall construction. As I wanted to go a bit further then the manual, I assembled the header in a way that is often found when a little more work is allowed in the construction. It is allowed here in mine......
( I noticed while taking the pics, the little burr on the post in the second pic .Will remove that. It is only in enlarged photos that one sees the imperfections..)
soon more...
Terry
Great eye for detail. Once again a detail that sets your modeling above many others, the addition of a "trait de juniper" (or "bolt of lightning joint"). I think this may be the first time I have seen somebody model a scarf joint in a scale model. Thanks for showing us that adding this sort of detail is not just possible but a detail extraordinaire. You must have some experience in timber framing yourself to attempt to replicate this sort of joint in your modeling.
Eric,
Scarf joint is sometimes also spelled "scarph joint". But it seems like scarf is more commonly used.
Carl,
Thanks for adding that great photo of a scarf joint in a timber frame. I am a regular viewer of the TV program "Barnwood Builders" on HG TV and host Mark Bowe would be oohing and ahhing over that joint and the patina of the timbers. Not just the joint but also the wood pegs and wedges that hold everything together including the 45 degree braces that stabilize the post and beam connections.
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
Dave, even people without experience just have to keep their eyes open. It's all out there...
What type of timber was used in your farmhouse construction? Very interesting grain and color? In the USA the preferred species would have included oak and poplar in the East and Midwest and Douglas Fir in the West..
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
Jerry
And the finished floor. Needs some more weathering of course, but with this you get an idea....