Pick it back up Kebmo, here's the next installment , the Stationary Boiler. (without the concrete base for now) If you look very closely, you will see the glass water gauge....
I really enjoy the texture you achieved along with the hints of steel peeking through the rust at just the right spots. Did you use a microhematocrit tube for the glass? I should have thought of that.
So, the next thing I made is ' The Scratcher' No , no, it's not a new NWSL device, it's a genuine Robert.G artefact.
To make dieper groves in the stripwood and especially in the harder species of wood, where a wire brush won't do the job, this little convenient utensil made out of oak and inserted sharpened small nails embedded in epoxy performs excellent.
I also use it to give structure to the ends of beams instead of banging these with a card file as per instructions. I think that is to coarse. Unless you want them to look very distressed.
Then I assembled the sub floor structure. I found it very satisfying to put very small nails into the joints. After all , they won't be seen when the planking is done , give much strength and hold everything together when glued. One can continue without having to wait for glue to dry.
This is truly a fantastic build, Robert! Love the scratcher! I'll make one from maple, which is the Maine hardwood. Europe has a lot of oak. Here in Maine, it is maple and pine. Glad to see you deviating from the instructions and making improvements!
The ash below to stove door is amazing. Robert, as an experiment, try Golden brand green metallic (fine) acrylic to give the look of glass on small things like bottles, etc. It might even work on the boiler glass to show the water in the glass tube. It is very subtle and transparent from some angles.
So, all the piers have been placed, as is the drum and sheaves. Next the cables. There is minimal weathering so far because, as stated in the manual, much will be hidden so don't waist your time on details that won't be seen. Although cut with a small circular saw, there is sometimes a small difference in height between the piers what makes they don't all sit on the ground. But STAY COOL as per instructions. So I did.. The scenery layer will dissolve that...
This is so much fun, I can only but recommend this fantastic kit to every serious modeler !!!
Comments
soon more goodies...
The rest of the machinery is to be installed in the floor, so I will start of with some woodwork . Beams, joists and stuff.... )
To make dieper groves in the stripwood and especially in the harder species of wood, where a wire brush won't do the job, this little convenient utensil made out of oak and inserted sharpened small nails embedded in epoxy performs excellent.
I also use it to give structure to the ends of beams instead of banging these with a card file as per instructions. I think that is to coarse. Unless you want them to look very distressed.
Then I assembled the sub floor structure. I found it very satisfying to put very small nails into the joints. After all , they won't be seen when the planking is done , give much strength and hold everything together when glued. One can continue without having to wait for glue to dry.
soon more..
That is one mean looking back-scratcher! Looks like it would be pretty effective at roughing up tree trunks as well.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Although cut with a small circular saw, there is sometimes a small difference in height between the piers what makes they don't all sit on the ground. But STAY COOL as per instructions. So I did.. The scenery layer will dissolve that...
This is so much fun, I can only but recommend this fantastic kit to every serious modeler !!!
I'll be back....
these are the tools of the trade..
Exquisite detailing. Taking our modeling to another level of fine detail. Those look like leather punches to me. Correct?
Thanks, Dave Sarther Tucson, AZ
More and final weathering when in situ..
i should be playing with legos