Joel, great job on the detail of your build. Robert G. says it best - the reference manual and your explanation is a great resource guide. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Just so I can follow along properly, which method did you settle on for the outside? #10? Phil
Thanks everyone. I started a bit of the siding. I went with #3 which was a very light dry brushing with an almost empty brush of white acrylic followed by black and grey CA (very small amounts. I found giving a quick coat of plain alcohol first made the CA flow better. I've started planking the left wall. Another thing I do differently than the manual is I stain all the boards before putting in the big "toothpick" knot holes. I find i can choose the better side and find a place where the knot hole is more natural. I like the knot holes pretty flush so I snip then and then carefully trim then with a razor blade. This actually made them too shiny and smooth so I cut some with a razor saw and that worked better. As an experiment I tried making some balsa "toothpicks" by sanding a piece of old balsa from a model airplane I mean 40 years old) and staining the tip then gluing in the holes like usual. Way easier to slice and gives a more matte appearance.
Thanks Bill, Frank, Tom, Ed, Ken and Brett. I'm happy with this technique so far. The oblong knots are formed by drilling the holes at an angle. I actually don't use a drill I use a cheap bead reamer ($2 at Michaels) and just twist it into the wood and get random sizes of knots at different angles.
I am doing a big take back now and have decided to follow Brett's direction and weather all the boards in advance. I realized there is still quite a variation in the quality of finish on the boards and I really want the best ones visible up front. So I will frame all the walls and then sort through the boards for the best ones and start planking the front wall then finish up the sides and finally do the rear wall.
While I do these simple but repetitive tasks I will take breaks for small projects like working on some castings and today working on the trusses. I've built many trusses over the years but these are by far the easiest I've ever encountered. Precut the 10 Rafters using the supplied jig (Brett has cleverly designed the jig so it fits a razor blade or my handy razor saw). Some tape to prevent gluing to the plans and a small spacer board for where the ridge board will go. Dab of glue on the truss, place it down on the template and pop the two rafters in place.
OK I finished the first and most important wall. A little close up of the knot hole detail. There is still a bit of fuzz at this magnification but you don't really see it with the naked eye. The macro lens causes a bit more distortion than I wanted the boards are really straight.
wow. brett sure knew what he was doing when he asked you to do the official build. great looking lumber details. like ken and bryan said, that knot in the lower left looks absolutely like a real knot. the splits in it are spot on. there's some fine modeling going around here.......
Thanks so much. Slowly but surely everything is coming together. I planked the sides and added the trusses. When I built my wall I must have squished a few boards when weathering so the lower wall is a bit thicker than the truss. To compensate I flipped over the wall and clamped it to the work bench and then used a couple of planks as spacers and glued on the trusses. If I was thinking I would have put the tar paper on first so the boards would match precisely. Ah well I'm off by 6/1000 of an inch.
I am really enjoying your build of the Tractor Repair Shop and learning quite a bit as you work through the construction process. I especially like how you illustrate and explain each step. Plenty of great photos for reference.
Thanks guys. I'm glad you like the detail I add in the posts Dave. Never sure how much detail to go into but it seems to me everyone knows this is just my way and if they want to try it they can and if they have their own ideas that's fine too.
Finished the last wall and while I was at it I skipped a few pages ahead and build the interior wall. Just good old chalk and alcohol as per the directions. I added a few more details like some small knots and some banding even though the wall is mostly covered by details
Comments
I've started planking the left wall. Another thing I do differently than the manual is I stain all the boards before putting in the big "toothpick" knot holes. I find i can choose the better side and find a place where the knot hole is more natural. I like the knot holes pretty flush so I snip then and then carefully trim then with a razor blade. This actually made them too shiny and smooth so I cut some with a razor saw and that worked better.
As an experiment I tried making some balsa "toothpicks" by sanding a piece of old balsa from a model airplane I mean 40 years old) and staining the tip then gluing in the holes like usual. Way easier to slice and gives a more matte appearance.
Those boards look terrific.
Frank
I am doing a big take back now and have decided to follow Brett's direction and weather all the boards in advance. I realized there is still quite a variation in the quality of finish on the boards and I really want the best ones visible up front. So I will frame all the walls and then sort through the boards for the best ones and start planking the front wall then finish up the sides and finally do the rear wall.
While I do these simple but repetitive tasks I will take breaks for small projects like working on some castings and today working on the trusses. I've built many trusses over the years but these are by far the easiest I've ever encountered. Precut the 10 Rafters using the supplied jig (Brett has cleverly designed the jig so it fits a razor blade or my handy razor saw). Some tape to prevent gluing to the plans and a small spacer board for where the ridge board will go. Dab of glue on the truss, place it down on the template and pop the two rafters in place.
Coloring on the siding looks great Joel so do the knots!
Jerry
Happy Holiday Weekend to all.
there's some fine modeling going around here.......
But how are we ever going to live with "Ah well I'm off by 6/1000 of an inch".
Jerry
I am really enjoying your build of the Tractor Repair Shop and learning quite a bit as you work through the construction process. I especially like how you illustrate and explain each step. Plenty of great photos for reference.
Thanks, Dave S Tucson, AZ
sartherdj@aol.com
Finished the last wall and while I was at it I skipped a few pages ahead and build the interior wall. Just good old chalk and alcohol as per the directions. I added a few more details like some small knots and some banding even though the wall is mostly covered by details