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Comments
This got pretty long, so I'm breaking this post into to halves. The first will cover track, the second will cover wiring.
This may be the last major installment of this thread. If you have ventured into hand-laying your own track, you will likely have made some decisions about how you are securing your rail work to the ties. That may be with spikes or adhesive. I may offer some ideas, but am not thinking anyone really needs a clinic on spiking rail.
Once you have pulled down the rails to the ties, verifying the alignment of the trackwork, it is time to trim the ties under the feeders. I've shown the rails pulled back up a bit here so you can see the feeders under the rail.
As you can see in this closeup, if you follow the steps I've mapped out, your feeder will only overlap one tie. You will need to trim away as may ties as will rest under the feeder. In my case, this is only one tie per feeder.
Once you know the number of ties you need to trim, gently push the rail down to the ties. Take a hobby knife with a sharp blade and scribe the top of the ties that will need to be trimmed. I do this by slightly angling the knife away from the rail to scribe just underneath the edge of the rail. I then lift the trackwork up high enough to trim the ties underneath the rails.
I pulled the rails up higher than may be necessary for the purposes of this photo. If you look closely, you can see the scribe marks on the surfaces of the ties.
*** PLEASE BE CAREFUL when lifting up the rail work taking care to protect the joints at each end of the frog as the solder joints here are delicate and can break.
This photo shows the ties cut away under the feeders. A Vee cut is what I've found is the most effective. At this point, go ahead and press the turnout back onto the ties, verifying that the trackwork rests fully on the ties.
Before you start securing the turnout to the ties, it is critical that you check the gap on either side of the throw bar. This photo shows the throwbar properly gapped between the ties.
I'm not intending to confuse the thread, but the next few photos will be of the straight turnout opposite the curved one shown above. This is because it is the next to be tied into existing trackwork.
This photo shows the free ends of the rail on the turnout. I take a file and gently file the base of the rail to make it easier to slide a rail joiner onto the rails. Additionally, I take the blade of a small flat-tip screwdriver and open a flair in the joiner to make it easier to slide it onto the adjacent rail.
Now slide the rail joiners all the way onto the end of the turnout rails. This photo shows the rail joiners in place on the turnout ready to be slid into place. If you look closely, you can see the flair on the rail joiners. Slide each joiner so that it is placed equally on each of the joined rails.
You can see where I have soldered the rails together at the rail joiner on the track nearer in the photo.
Next, you want to start aligning the track to proper track alignment. I start by initially spiking the track into position, refraining from driving the spikes in fully. Place a tie on each side of the rail to hold the alignment securely. This photo shows some of the initial spikes.
Continue adding spike pairs to secure the alignment. I usually place spikes near a soldered rail and then midway between the PC-board ties. This photo shows the additional spikes in place before seating them.
I usually drive them in 2/3 of the way, and then seat them fully. This keeps the alignment accurate and secures the rails in correct alignment.
The trackwork is pretty standard from this point on, simply continue to secure the track as you normally would.
Now on to the wiring.
Mark
I've been challenged with this project of determining a consistent way of wiring the track so that I can maintain it without having to troubleshoot the special way something is wired. So bear with me as I show you how I came up with this. The following picture is of the wiring schematic that comes with the Tortoise switch machines. Even though I am a controls engineer, I saw this and then said, "OK, so how do I really use this?"
Just as a point of reference, the diagram shows the solder/contact pads as if viewed from the turnout operating pivot side of the tortoise with the terminals at the bottom.
I did a check to correlate the diagram with the actual operation of the switch machine. I'll be happy to explain in more details if anyone is interested, or if I miss something.
You apply 12 VDC across terminals 1 and 8 to move the motor. The x's on the right side of the table reflect the position of the switch mechanism when power is applied as shown. The connecting lines between the terminals show which terminals are connected at each position.
So the first line below the numbers shows that when you apply +12 VDC
to terminal 8 and 0 VDC to terminal 1, the actuator will move to the left. The lines showing which terminals are connected shows this as the default position matching that of the diagram above.
Conversely applying +12 VDC to Terminal 1, and 0 VDC to Terminal 8 will move the actuator to the right.
I use the auxiliary terminals 2-7 to route track power as well as powering the frog.
So why all the bother??? When you are in the midst of wiring the control panel, which terminal must be powered so that the turnout will be routed to the mainline? Which for the diverging route. All indicator LEDs or annunciation will depend on knowing this.
I chose that when terminal 8 is powered by 12 VDC, I want the turnout to be routed to the mainline. This practice is totally arbitrary but it helps to establish a known condition. For my case, the turnout indicator will be green. Red is for when the turnout is set to the diverging route.
I want terminals 4 and 5 to always be opposite polarity so the frog feeder can be connected to one or the other to be properly powered. Once set to match the mainline, it will be correct for the diverging route.
The following shows the standard I've chosen to use for switch machine wiring. I have decided to use switch machine terminal adapters on my layout. These terminal designations apply to that adapter.
Terminal
1 0 VDC (DC Common) - Yellow wire
2 Track + from the previous turnout - Red Wire (jumpered to term 7)
3 Track - from the previous turnout - White Wire (jumpered to term 6)
4 Frog (Mainline Track -)
5 Frog (Mainline Track +)
6 Track - to the next turnout - White wire (jumpered to term 3)
7 Track + to the next turnout - Red wire (jumpered to term 2)
8 12 VDC (Switch Control Power 9-12 VDC) - Blue wire
The convenient aspect of this is that each adapter can be wired at the workbench with adequate length track power leads to reach the previous and next turnout machines. The switch machine power leads can be made long enough to connect to the control system. The frog feeder is the only feeder that needs to be connected at the switch machine, and you can easily determine which terminal (4 or 5) it needs to be connected to.
This next photo shows the connector wired per this diagram.
This photo shows the wiring adapter underneath the tortoise switch machine with the adapter terminals aligned under the matching switch machine terminals. 1 is on the left, 8 on the right.
As mentioned initially, the default position of the 'Tortoise' is with the actuator mechanism set to the left. (This, by the way, will move the actuator wire to the right.) This photo shows the wiring harness installed for this orientation. Yes, I admit, it's a boring photo, but shows the adapter in place.
If the Tortoise mechanism needs to be to the right for the mainline orientation (actuator wire moves to the left), simply rotate the adapter 180 degrees, aligning terminal 8 on the adapter with contact 1 on the switch machine. This photo shows the adapter mounted on the switch machine.
I hope that you've found some value in these wanderings. I actually want to thank Brett for suggesting this thread as documenting this has really helped me organize my thoughts and ideas that set a good pattern for the rest of the work, especially the wiring.
I'm open to any comments, ideas, or questions that you may have.
Mark
I just changed the steel wire that is provided (that actually moves the turnout) by a thicker one)
Thanks for this so well documented and didactic clarification .
Carl, thanks for your kind comments and friendship. You are a real gentleman.
Mark
Here is an "aerial shot" of the finished curved turnouts. As you can see, #10 curved turnouts are rather long.
I titled this thread "Hand Laid Track on a SWSM Layout". To this point, I've not really made much note of the application of these techniques as they will relate to my integration of Sierra West modules.
The first module I will likely be working on is the E. J. Whiley and Duluth Plumbing Siding. Here is a picture of the lead-in from the turnout.
If you look closely in this photo, you can see where I have outlined the E. J. Whiley and Duluth Plumbing module. I made a scale mockup of E. J. Whiley to get a visual preview of modules. Just as a note, you can see the Quincy Salvage module with some of the castings staged in the background.
There are a couple of key things I'd like to draw attention to in this photo.
1. The module seam crosses the track at 90 degrees (right side) making the track joint more reliable to construct.
2. I included the track plus some room for scenery on the module.
3. When I lay the rail on the module, I intentionally leave a small (1/16") gap between the connecting rails to accommodate for expansion. I slide a rail joiner to the module side when disconnected and then slide it back over the connection when the module is in place. Laying all the rail at this stage allows for the track to be properly aligned from the beginning.
4. The module is sized to fit on a workbench or shelf to make it easier to wire and build.
5. I will mount terminal blocks under the module for track and lighting circuits to allow for termination and testing on the bench.
6. I modified the proposed of the layout of the kits to set them back about two inches from the roadway. This will allow me to model an asphalt roadway between the modules with room for transition scenery and driveways to each of the structures.
Thanks for following along.
Mark
Geezerbill
Thanks for the kind comments.
Mark
For the time being, I'd suggest refraining from painting the PC-board ties until after you have spiked the track into place. I experienced a circumstance where the solder joins for the lead in rails to the frog broke. In this case, I had not painted the ties and it made it much easier to repair the solder joint without the paint in the way.
Just thoughts for the curious.
Mark
Thanks for the question. It's HO scale, code 70 rail. When I add the branchline, it will be code 55 rail.
BTW, I really appreciate the build thread you are posting. Great work.
Mark
I alluded to cost of the fixtures at the beginning. Once you get past that cost, likely $175+, the materials including wire are probably around $10. I take my time so construct a turnout, so with painting and weathering it would likely run 3 hours for one turnout.
I've not fabricated turnouts for other than my layout. If someone was truly interested in me making turnouts, message me and we can talk.
Again, thanks for the kind comments. The camraderie here is to be treasured.
Mark
I transitioned to focusing on laying some track and completing wiring on what I had done. Oddly enough, I've learned a fair number of new lessons in both wiring, and track construction.
I expect to post another update showing pictures of installing the switch machines, methods I've chosen to employ for wiring, and potentially some practical hints on making the turnouts that as I've had to repair and adjust some track has brought some new things to light. Who says an old dog can't learn new tricks?
There is a pretty good chance that I will not get to that in the next few weeks, however, as I am preparing to travel to Malawi and will be out of the country for about three weeks. I want to steer away from politicizing this or pushing anyone's buttons, but my relationship with the people of Malawi is nothing of my doing. The Lord has orchestrated this since before my last trip two years ago. I will be traveling alone to one of the three poorest countries in the world, literally halfway around the world from my home. I will be speaking to pastors and church elders in remote villages along the Malawi/Zambia border about leadership. I'll also meet with orphans and elderly people in villages, and visiting friends in a refugee camp. And all this from a guy who grew up in Wyoming and now is an engineer.
So if you think you have no influence or purpose, I'd urge you to find something outside your normal circle to do to help another person. You will be rewarded beyond anything you could imagine, and you have the chance to impact other lives.
I cherish the people in the SierraWest forum and wish you the very best until I return.
Mark
Terry
Will you be travelling to South Africa at all?
Wes, I only stop in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia coming and going. On the return trip, I go through Dublin. It was scary last time, as I was waiting for my flight to the States in Tanzania, I was told all my flights were cancelled due to Hurricane Irma ( I think) hitting Orlando. So it's unnerving when things happen to you half-way around the globe.
Thank you Terry, Brett, Ken, Robert and Wes. It really is a great group of guys here at the forum.
Mark
I thought I'd write a follow-up on hand-laying track with a few cautionary notes and helpful suggestions as a close to this thread.
1. Do not paint the ties, especially the throw bar, until after you have everything assembled. If a solder joint breaks, it is more difficult to adequately clean the joint to resolder it.
2. It pays to verify the electrical isolation across the gaps you file in the pc-board ties. A gap that is not completely separated causes a short that can be difficult to troubleshoot.
3. When you are placing the turnout into place, ensure that the throwbar moves easily from side to side. Time spent getting this right will be well worth it. You may need to clean up the joining surfaces of the points to the closure rails.
4. The instructions for filing the points and the frog rails are a bit misleading. You want to file each of the frog rails so they come to as long, and sharp a point as possible. This will actually cause the web of the rail to get so thin as to flex. This is ok. See next comment for points.
5. When you file the points, I have found out that it works best for me to file the point rail far enough to leave at least half of the web intact. You can figure out this by trial and error and looking at how far the rail is back from the end of the taper in the jig. I then file a taper on the inside corner of the point so that the wheels move over the transition smoothly.
6. One of the challenges I've had is to get the throwbar centered correctly following the directions as you solder one side with the one point rail moved to one side. Also, it can be easy to get the throwbar out of square with the closure rails. The gap between an open point rail and the closure rail is about 0.062". I have developed the following technique to ensure that the hole in the throwbar is centered between the closure rails.
Profile ties are wooden ties that are half the thickness of standard ties. I sanded down to about 0.030" thick to act as a centering gap on one side. I center the throwbar by aligning the hole with the centered gap in the adjacent rail. Notice that I raised the pc-board tie by placing a profile tie under the throwbar. This is an effective way to keep the throwbar squared to the closure rails. I use a scribe to press the rail against the spacer and then solder it in place. You can see the physical layout before soldering in this photo.
I then clamp the soldered point to the closure rail, insert a pc-board tie as a spacer for the other rail, hold it in place with the scribe and solder it into place.
I have now installed sixteen hand-laid turnouts, a number of curves and sidings. The return loop is wired with an auto-reversing circuit, and I am now installing electronic switches and the control panel. I am looking forward to completing three last straight turnouts to complete my initial pass on the layout.
I am already planning on how I will construct the trestle for Quincy Salvage and move to adding the structures and scenery for the layout.
Please feel free to ask any questions or forward any comments you may have. I'd be happy to help as you venture into hand-laying track. It really is worth the effort.
Terry
mark
Carl, thank you for the kind words. I stand in awe of what you and so many other modelers like Mike, Robert, Karl, and so many others here have accomplished. My plan on this part of the layout is to get enough done so that my grandkids can run trains with Grandpa and then start working on the buildings and scenery on the layout. Hopefully, that will only be a couple of more weeks.
I think I have settled that my first Sierra West build on the layout will be Quincy's Salvage. I've looked up some prototype trestle designs and am looking forward to adding some additional details to the trestle in the scrapyard, plus I pretty well have the scenery contours planned out around it.
Again, thank you both for the kind comments. It means a lot coming from "masters."
Mark
Terry