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yet another o scale railroad camp build

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Comments

  • Robert.GRobert.G
    As long you don't demolish those guitars, like Townsend did, you're fine :wink: The stone base looks good to me. After the vaseline, remember, you can't paint, glue, weather or do anything else on that surface anymore.
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks robert. i've decided to go with styrene for the forms, so no vaseline needed.
  • brownbr
    Foundation looks good in place. I was skeptical but you made it work.
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks bryan, i am pleased with the way it turned out. my new dilemma; im gonna need to add stones to the ends of the side walls after the front and rear walls have been built. to do that i think the only way that can be done is to wet the ends, scrape some of the plaster away, and add new plaster/stones.
    any thoughts or suggestions for that?
  • EmeryJEmeryJ
    That foundation rocks... pun intended :smile:
    Always pictured something like that on a water wheel mill setting.
  • TomMich
    That stone foundation has turned our great!
  • kebmokebmo
    TomMich said:

    Kevin,
    I built Finescale Miniatures Engine House many years ago that had the individual stones for the foundation. After doing it I vowed to use some other foundation materials readily available, such as sheet plastic, plaster castings, resin castings etc. I wasn't really sold on the look of the stones. It is an individual preference however. It is very tedious placing all the stones to look good.

    tom,
    i built fsm's weary willie several years ago for a hobby shop owner (that had an entire shelf of yellow box fsm kits and was willing to let me build them all for a layout he was planning for the store before he went out of business), and george included a bag of small stones for the foundation wall. i used them, but when i was finished i felt that they looked oversized.
    i don't think that'll be an issue in o scale. i have a bag of gravel, and i'm sifting through the stones with a tweezers picking out the smallest ones. it's tedious but i think it'll be worth it in the long run.
  • kebmokebmo
    edited October 2020
    today was a productive one. i went to the lhs and bought a sheet of .60 styrene, brought it home and cut it into 1/2" strips, which i then used to make forms for the foundation walls, as seen below (there is a third form not in the picture for either the front or back wall):

    forms for stone foundation walls

    since its all styrene. i used 1/4" square styrene for the "corners" and scale 2x10 strips cut into 1/2" pieces as spacers to provide rigidity and consistency.

    the actual "pour" won't happen for a while. i have about a 20lb bag of small stones that i have to pick through to get the smallest stones possible. one other thing; the side foundation walls are going all the way from front to back and the front and back walls will butt to the side walls so.... i'm gonna have to carve away about a 1/16" from the ends of the side walls, and apply some plaster and stones. man oh man, i keep pushing the finish line further and further back.

    i also went to home depot today and bought another sheet of 1/2" foam. i had the guy cut it into 4 2x4' sections (so i could get it in the car). i'll be using for landscape and structure bases and i'll have a bunch left over.

    moving on from that. i removed the right roof panel on the north-south roof, and cut another one, scribed it for shingling, got the angle right (this time)added the copper tape 'flashing', and started shingling it. i temporarily taped it in place and tested the rear roof panel and i think it's going to perfect (where have i heard that before?). i have to trim the rafter tails a little shorter, but other than that it's looking good. then it was time to come upstairs and feed the dog and get dinner started.
    fun day.
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    The only way is up Kevin !! Sounds good what you're doing there.
  • KCSTrainsKCSTrains
    Kevin, this is an aggressive build and way beyond my capabilities. However, part of the fun of this hobby (obsession!!) is the ability to think through the various problems and challenges. The stone wall should look great. Keep up the good work. Phil
  • TomMich
    Looks like you are back on track making good progress. Great job!
  • kebmokebmo
    roof panel redone.
    redone roof panel
  • MountaingoatMountaingoat
    Looking great Kevin.
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks. these shingles are the bomb!
  • ALCOALCO
    What’s that I see? Daylight?
  • kebmokebmo
    i reglued the rear roof panel after making some adjustments to the rafter tails (i had to shorten them so the panel sat flush). next step, put the unshingled front roof panel in place so i can figure out the balcony roof.


    reglued rear roof panel
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    Quiet impressive build !
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks robert. i am aware that the gooseneck lampshades aren't lined up correctly. that will be one of the last things i'll fix.
  • brownbr
    Shake roof looks great.
  • EmeryJEmeryJ
    Way to hang in there Kevin. That roof looks really nice!
  • KCSTrainsKCSTrains
    What a building!! Your diligence has paid off, the roof looks great. Congratulations. Phil
  • ALCOALCO
    Tenacity and guts. Oh, and a great model. Looking forward to your putting the diorama together.
  • TomMich
    Kevin, your build is coming along nicely. Building looks GREAT! Your persistence has paid off.
  • kebmokebmo
    edited October 2020
    i have been trying to make some progress on the roofs. i constructed the balcony roof out of 1/32" plywood and installed rolled roofing and rafters. it curled up quite a bit, so i "painted" water between the rafters and put three 3-2-1 block on it overnight. i've done this four times and its still curling. does anyone have a tried and true remedy for this?
    Balcony roof 1
  • brownbr
    Take a picture of where it will be installed. Might be a way to hide a brace or just glue in place.
  • jmanugojmanugo
    edited October 2020
    kebmo said:

    does anyone have a tried and true remedy for this?

    As seen in the photo, you put a weight in the center and lift the ends. You have to watch it, check every so often. You can also do it upside down, weights at the ends and lift in the center.
    This is how I managed to straighten a plank.

    Greetings.
    Jose Manuel
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks everyone. ed, i don't want any melted window, but i'll give it a shot.
    bryan, there is no place for a brace since i installed rafters on the bottom of it. it will be glued down to the main roof panel, so maybe i'll be able to wrestle it into place.
    jose, your idea seems pretty plausible. i'm gonna be down at the bench tonight and i'll give that a shot too.
  • tomtom
    Uh, the water goes on the other side (swells the wood). Gentle heat on the rafter side (shrinks the fibers).
  • kebmokebmo
    thanks tom. the other side has been treated with rolled roofing already. do you think it'll work if i wet that side? the rolled roofing is black construction paper weathered with powders.
  • tomtom
    Hmm, maybe just heat on the rafter side then. That ultra thin plywood makes me crazy too, I usually use cardboard, but that can also warp, and of course the plywood is very strong. Jose's idea may be the best - we know you'll figure out one way or another. Good luck.
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