phil, hindsight being what it is, i've already thought of ways i should have done it, but i figure it's a really old outhouse and it's held up pretty well considering its age, about half way through siding the back wall i thought i might wanna do something like this:
to it, but short of cutting angles on the end of the studs amd starting over, i couldn't think of anything. i suppose i could build it normal and push it over....
Actually this one is in good shape except for the lean. The roof and wall boards look decent. It definitely shows how the roof protected the paint on the upper boards. It looks like it was built on a bit of a hill so probably rotted on the end in the hill.
Most outhouses I have seen (and used on the farm) had vertical wall boards.
thanks bryan brett and rick. i'm working on the doors and commode and separater wall now. once i get it all together i'm gonna try and really mange it up good. i have a 'concrete' pad that was 1/4" thick but i carved out a recess in the foam and i'll countersink the slab into the foam. this is gonna be a 3" x 3" diorama that will eventually be incorporated into the bigger diorama....
i got my lincoln black shoe dye today and mixed up a 4 ounce bottle of silverwood (i just ran out this morning), and it works even better than the silverwood they make. the real cedar shingle packaging has their silverwood recipe on the back. i followed the recipe and it came out a little darker than the product. here's the recipe for anyone who wants it: 25 drops of lincoln black shoe dye per 1 fluid ounce of isopryl alcohol. i simply refilled their 4 oz bottle with the alcohol and put 100 (give or take) drops of the shoe dye in it and gave it a good shakin'.. i have a 1 x 8 drying right now and i'll take a picture of it once its dry (as if my pictures are worth a sh*t) so you guys can see how it turned out.
i bought an o scale telephone kit from micro mark. the tough part was getting the little green balls on the cross arms.
here's the rig for the lighting. two 1/4" stock with copper tape. one positive and one negative
and here the the three light boxes redone:
i ordered a new soldering iron and it'll be here tomorrow so i'll solder the lighting in, then glue the front wall and end wall in place and start on the roofs.
i'm a total nitwit when it comes to anything electronic, so i have a couple of question for the light 'em up guys: i have soldered the leads from three leds to the copper tape strips
this question probably should have been asked before i did any soldering. the leds have two leads and they're both black, so does it matter whether they were soldered to pos or neg as long as they've been soldered to one of each?
the second question, since i am going to be adding a fourth led to light veranda, will a 9 volt battery power all four, or should i get the wall wart from evans design??
Polarity is very important. Usually one lead is red and the other green with the red being positive. From the photo it looks like you might have ordered the ones with the AC/DC pack (universal for transformers). If so, polarity is corrected by the pack so you don't need to worry about it. Which did you order and I can verify it for you.
I believe you said you ordered the pico LED's. They draw very low current, but the 9V battery is quite small so it will light them just fine, but for how long is the question.
The Bridge Rectifier can take either AC or DC voltage and give the correct polarity to the LED's. That explains the black wires. Just hook it up one wire to each buss and keep going. You are now a member of the enlightened.
Those particular LED's makes it incredibly simple to light structures. Any voltage from 7V-19V AC or DC or even DCC from the track bus, will outlast any incandescent lamp like we used to use and almost no power to operate. It takes out the guess work for those not electrically minded.
for the benefit of me and anyone else as lost with lighting as i am, let me repeat back to make sure i've got it right: because of the way theses leds come prewired with a resistor and a bridge rectifier (listen to me sounding like i know what i'm talking about), it really does't matter which copper tape the lead is soldered to, as long as each led's leads are separated to positive and negative, and adding the power is the only thing that really matters red to pos black to neg?
Comments
thanks robert
got a package today......
hindsight being what it is, i've already thought of ways i should have done it, but i figure it's a really old outhouse and it's held up pretty well considering its age,
about half way through siding the back wall i thought i might wanna do something like this:
to it, but short of cutting angles on the end of the studs amd starting over, i couldn't think of anything.
i suppose i could build it normal and push it over....
Most outhouses I have seen (and used on the farm) had vertical wall boards.
Rick
Rick
i have a 'concrete' pad that was 1/4" thick but i carved out a recess in the foam and i'll countersink the slab into the foam. this is gonna be a 3" x 3" diorama that will eventually be incorporated into the bigger diorama....
25 drops of lincoln black shoe dye per 1 fluid ounce of isopryl alcohol. i simply refilled their 4 oz bottle with the alcohol and put 100 (give or take) drops of the shoe dye in it and gave it a good shakin'.. i have a 1 x 8 drying right now and i'll take a picture of it once its dry (as if my pictures are worth a sh*t) so you guys can see how it turned out.
Thanks much,
--Paul
here's the rig for the lighting. two 1/4" stock with copper tape. one positive and one negative
and here the the three light boxes redone:
i ordered a new soldering iron and it'll be here tomorrow so i'll solder the lighting in, then glue the front wall and end wall in place and start on the roofs.
Rick
ed, i'll look for it
art, thanks
And Kevin you're taking a very impressive structure and build to another level ! I've enjoyed following along
--Paul
i have soldered the leads from three leds to the copper tape strips
this question probably should have been asked before i did any soldering. the leds have two leads and they're both black, so does it matter whether they were soldered to pos or neg as long as they've been soldered to one of each?
the second question, since i am going to be adding a fourth led to light veranda, will a 9 volt battery power all four, or should i get the wall wart from evans design??
I believe you said you ordered the pico LED's. They draw very low current, but the 9V battery is quite small so it will light them just fine, but for how long is the question.
Rick
this is what i bought along with a couple 9v battery harnesses.
i ordered more leds today, along with 25 ft of red and 25 ft of black wire, and some shrink tube.
as you can see in the above picture, both led leads are black. so i'm kinda confused.....
Rick
--Paul
7V-19V AC or DC or even DCC from the track bus, will outlast any incandescent lamp like we used to use and almost no power to operate. It takes out the guess work for those not electrically minded.
Rick
because of the way theses leds come prewired with a resistor and a bridge rectifier (listen to me sounding like i know what i'm talking about), it really does't matter which copper tape the lead is soldered to, as long as each led's leads are separated to positive and negative, and adding the power is the only thing that really matters red to pos black to neg?
Rick