Code 83 rail is best for On3, or code 100 for O gauge main line. Many sources have these, I use Micro Engineering (Walther). The rail is easily blackened in preparation for weathering with Jax Pewter

Hi everyone.

Like the other members who have responded I am enjoying and learning from your well illustrated and instructive build of Kit #315, The Water Tank and Handcar Repair Shed.

to appear...but I fully plan on finishing kit #315 first and foremost. It will all make perfect sense once I reveal the following builds...I build my kits on 1" foam, and then fit them in like puzzl

I got home from work tonight to find a parcel on my front porch bench that didn't have an Amazon logo on it.

rafter tails spaced a scale 24" (see photo #2 & #3). The roof piece, once glued on, would have just the modified portion showing as overhang. This creates the appearance of in scale rafter tails an

from the Ken Karns Collection. Has a nice ring to it...could even give them catalog numbers..."Hey Tom, I'll trade you a #1023 shelf unit for a #365 Workbench"!

Thanks Karl. Next SW kit I will try that. The rest of the lights for this kit will all have straight hangers. Jim, I am using magnet wire #38 AWG from Ngeneering. I was just having trouble getting

a description of how to do that in your current #301 logging and tractor repair shop build. All of this is a really good. Yes it would be really great to see some more out of the old RRL build. V

Thanks guys. Still have to add a bit of residue running don the side of the compressor and gas can and then hopefully post them in the new thread. Meanwhile on to wall #3. The rest are quite simple s

I had to elevate the drive shaft on my "#300 Mill Engine" kit build to accommodate my shingle mill and have the shafts line up, maybe you could do something similar (in reverse) to lower your drive li

Well made some headway on the right wall. So many details and lots of little labels. Now that I look at the picture there is too much chalk on the fire extinguisher hose and the white drum on the low

I think I want to try and get a more dilapidated, run-down look on this build, more inline with the finish I did on my "#303 Rigging Shed" build. I'm looking to recapture that run down, backwoods, unk

Desk cleaned up from the other projects I'm working on, but are stagnant, tools put away so I can find them, (theoretically) and now its time to pre-read the 'bible' for a couple of hours and familia…

Before going into the details, you will need to grain the 8 inch, 4 inch, and 3 inch wood in bag #3. Be sure to grain the sides of the 4 inch wood because it is very thick. When you are graining the

Step #3: Locate the notches below the metal roofing. These mark the location of each rafter tail.

Started the build in 2010, finally finished 10 years later.

Checked my kit. I think there is different packaging. I have a bag #4 and bag#5, but it looks like you have the same contents in your bag#3. Do you have the big resin base casting? I can only assume t

Step #3: Put the white metal casting in the blackening solution and use a small brush to brush away the black crud that develops.

Now these gas bottles are my thing. I HATE casting these so this is what's in printer #3 this morning... see how they turn out. First batch. This shot is from my computer screen of the file prep.