In the first picture the right hand window is a little out of alinement. But it was worse. Glass over hung the edge of the frame. I used a diamond dust file to sand off the excess glass. On the se

I wanted my brick forge to have a well used and abused appearance to go along with the rest of the blacksmith shop I'm working on. The following illustration (photo 2) is the results of re-scribing t

and oblong recess larger than the knot with my #11 blade. I then carve the toothpick end so it is oblong and glue it into a hole in the center of the carved recess and cut flush on the backside. Sev

Buying spray paint is #1 on my list tomorrow on my way to work, and then progress on these beauties tomorrow evening.

to the tape. The tape was then trimmed with #11 blade very close to the decal. When the decal paper was removed I ended up with this...

Thanks Joel, Karl, Art, and Ken. Art I did use Karls method of holding the wood down with the chopper blade and breaking the wood upward. I have goon back and used the back of a #11 blade to scrape

work them once glued down and cured a bit with a #11 blade....or an pointy dental tool to "rough" up the edges....then finish with a brass brush a bit more to texture the shingle's further...remember

in faux joints....light pressure with a dull #11 blade will look like two joined boards or beams...just don't score too deep. This gives you a chance to brace the joint with bolts and gussets....the

I like Option #1 with all the service facilities on the opposite side of the station. That's the good thing about Brett's kits...they look fantastic and extremely detailed from any side or angle!

I like #1 and #4 the best! I'm going to need a few of them!

stove pipe at the angle by carving it in with a #11blade, wood floor just visible inside the cracked open door, rear covered area and electrical service connection (viewable in subsequent images). A

The next item to add is the Sawdust Collector. This is a cast metal item that was cleaned up with a combination of #11 blade, file and brass brush mounted in my Proxxon rotary tool.

Thanks Karl....might booger up a board or six....but I don't want to do all that work...then have a pallet, shelf or tank covering it up...I also add some additional graining later with a #11 blade...

The next clue comes from reading ahead - a long way ahead - where on pg 40 we are instructed at Step #1 to "Remove the left wall dormer roof from the Left Wall Template". It then gets covered in tarpa

Bryan outlined except I have also used a #17 X-Acto chisel blade to help work the board off.

in for a minute was able to slip the end of a #11 blade under it.

I decided to provide my model with the look of real rafter tails without completely outfitting the roof with real rafters as I did on the Bait & Tackle Shop. Shelby's main is much larger and much mor

Here is a "toothpick" knot under construction. Rather than using a #11 blade to drill a hole, I used a small drill bit in a pin vise to make a small hole first, and then inserted the toothpick. I mixe

I score the paint by running a #11 blade with the grain of the wood. Multiple scores where I want a lot of paint gone, few scores everywhere else. Mist with water and wait 30 seconds or so. Then t

NO clean up! I'm serious, I have not picked up my #11 blade once when detailing these parts. As an example, the various highly detailed bottles come on a sprue attached at the bottom of the bottles.